WOW! I'm not sure what happened but the posting page is/was now in script/code rather than blogger.
I'd published a July 2020 post of "new blogger". In that, when you see < > that changes things to script/code. I started this new post, and saw the < > symbols up in the left hand corner, crossed my fingers and clicked. Yes, looks like I'm back to what I want. Thank you for understanding.
Let me find a smiling photo!
The
Up-Cycled
Beanie
is designed
to utilize stash, or re-purposed
yarn in a bulky weight,
or
working
with
2
worsted weight yarns held together throughout.
The hat can be knit in a weekend, or
two,
making it a
perfect gift, accessory or
for charity.
This may be considered an advanced
beginner
level pattern because knowledge of stitch
construction is helpful.
If finished neatly, it's
reversible!
Finished sizes:
Adult: flat 18”, stretches to 24”circumference, height 12”
Child: flat 16”, stretches to 22”circumference, height 10”
Gauge: (size #10 needles)4 stitches =1” stockinette. Adjust needle size to match gauge.
Materials: Yarn: Wool or wool blend in Bulky weight, or 2 worsted weight yarns held together.
Adult: yarn held together: 317yards/150grams; Child: 230 yards /105grams
Photo: Up-Cycled Beanie is knit in re-purposed: Worsted Merino Superwash Solids by Plymouth Yarn
100% Merino, 218 yards / 100 grams.
Held & worked together with re-purposed: Painted Sky by Knitting Fever Worsted superwash
100% Wool 218 yards / 100 grams
Needles: US#9(5.5mm) and #10(6mm), 16”, circular needles, set US#10 double pointed needles
Notions: Stitch markers, tapestry needle
Abbreviations: CO = cast on K = knit p = purl k2tog= knit 2 stitches together k2togbl=knit 2 stitches together through back loop p2togbl=purl 2 stitches together through back loop pm=place marker sm=slip marker Rnd/s = rounds st/s = stitch/es
Directions: Directions are written for size adult, [child in brackets]. (Notes in Italic)
Use the long-tail cast-on method, with size US#9, circular needles, cast on 72,[60] stitches.
Place marker & join together by knitting first stitch being careful not to twist.
Rib Rnds: * Knit 2, purl 2; repeat from * to end
Work rib 4”[3”] from CO or desired height.
Hat Rnd Set up: With US#10 needles, * Knit 10, purl 2, pm; repeat from * to end
Hat Rnds: * Knit 10, purl 2, sm; repeat from * to end
Work hat 11”, [9”] from CO.
For a taller hat, work extra rounds before starting the crown decreases.
Crown Decreases: Change to double pointed needles when needed.
Rnd 1: * K2togbl, k6, k2tog, p2, sm; repeat from * to end
Rnd 2: * K8, p2togbl, sm; repeat from * to end (p2togbl makes a very reversible hat)
Rnd 3: * K2togbl, k4, k2tog, p1, sm; repeat from * to end
Rnd 4: * K6, p1, sm; repeat from * to end
Rnd 5: * K2togbl, k2, k2tog, p1, sm; repeat from * to end
Rnd 6: * K4, p1, sm; repeat from * to end
Rnd 7: * K2togbl, k2tog, p1, sm; repeat from * to end
Rnd 8: * K2, p1, sm; repeat from * to end
Rnd 9: * K2togbl, p1, sm; repeat from * to end
Rnd 10: * K1, p1, remove marker; repeat from * to end
Pull together, and tie off neatly for an interestingly reversible hat.
Photos of the process:
 |
| Select sweaters, needles and pattern. I'd knit these sweaters and knew they were constructed top-down. Once the buttons and button bands were removed, I started unraveling the yarn at the hem to work the Up-Cycled Beanie. |
 |
| I worked the adult hat to 11". It was time to start the crown decreases. |
 |
| Crown decreases completed. It was time to "Cut 12” yarn, and thread end through remaining 12
stitches. Pull together, and tie off neatly for an interestingly reversible hat."
|
 |
| Up-Cycled Beanie! |
 |
| With yarn/sweater remaining, I unraveled more yarn and started the child's hat. I'd knitted the sweaters and knew where/how to pick the yarn to remove the sleeves. From there, I could keep working by unraveling more yarn through the yokes. |
 |
| Two Up-Cycled Beanies! The adult beanie is turned inside-out so you can it as reverse stockinette. |
This pattern is available on MarilynnsGardenKnitDesign.blogspot.com
Up-Cycled Beanie pattern pdf is available on Ravelry.com
Copyright 2021, Marilynn Blacketer. All rights reserved. 7/22/21
For pattern support please contact: marilynnblacketer@gmail.com
Taking
inspiration from looking forward to seeing family again, I have
developed the Time to Hug Shawl. If the
Time to Hug Shawl is knit in a cotton
blend, perfect for cool spring and summer evenings. If knit in
blended wool, great for the blustery winter.
The shawl is worked with 2
increases on beginning
Right Side. The eyelet and
mesh edging will be worked
on the Wrong Side, along
with 1
decrease,
creating an asymmetrical shawl. This might be considered an advance
beginner pattern because knowledge of stitch and shawl construction
are helpful. The shawl
takes a few evenings or weekends to complete, making the Time
to Hug Shawl
a perfect gift or accessory.
Shawl finished size: ~800yds/200g 17” depth, 64”wing; blocking: 24”depth, 84” wing
Gauge: 5 stitches & 5 ridges = 1” to create loose soft fabric. Adjust needle size.
Materials: Yarn: Cotton or wool blend in fingering weight; ~800yards/200grams
color A: 27421 Woodstock; and color B: color: 27409 Sweet Home
Needles: Size US#6(4mm), 40” circular needles
Notions: hanging stitch markers, tapestry needle
Abbreviations: k = knit Kfb= knit front&back k2tog=knit 2 stitches together
k2togbl= knit 2 stitches together through the back loop RS=right side WS=wrong side sts=stitches yo=yarn over S1=slip one stitch EBO=elastic bind off
Slip one Stitch: With yarn in front, slip one stitch purlwise, then move yarn to the back of work between needle tips ready to work the next stitch.
Elastic Bind Off: (Cast on, Bind Off, Cap Sease, p123 variation)
Sl, * k1, insert left needle into the front of both stitches on right needle from left to right, and k2togbl; repeat from * (this will EBO one stitch)
While working with two 100g coordinating yarns, alternate Color A & B at the beginning of RS rows.
RS: Carry A&B up the RS by holding and knitting the two strands together for the first knit stitch.
WS: (last stitch) k2tog those two strands.
Directions: Cast on 6sts, WS: Knit (Notes in italic.)
RS Rows 1, 3, 5, 7: K1, Kfb, yo, knit to end
WS Rows 2, 4, 6: S1, k2tog, knit to end
WS Row 8: S1, k2tog, * yo, k2tog; repeat from * to last 4sts, k4
Work Eyelet rows 1- 8, total 16 times.
(WS Row 8 stitch counts:10, 14, 18, 22, 26, 30, 34, 38, 42, 46, 50, 54, 58, 62, 66, 70)
RS Rows 1, 3: K1, Kfb, yo, knit to end
WS Row 2: S1, k2tog, knit to end
WS Row 4: S1, k2tog, (yo, k2tog)16times, knit to end
RS Rows 5, 7: K1, Kfb, yo, knit to end
WS Row 6: S1, k2tog, knit to end
WS Row 8: S1, k2tog, * yo, k2tog; repeat from * to last 4sts, k4
Work Mesh Edging rows 1- 8, total 16 times.
(WS Row 8 stitch counts: 74, 78, 82, 86, 90, 94, 98, 102, 106, 110, 114, 118, 122, 126, 130, 134)
RS Rows 1, 3: K1, Kfb, yo, knit to end
WS Row 2: S1, k2tog, knit to end
WS Row 4: S1, k2tog, (yo, k2tog)32times, knit to end
RS Rows 5, 7: K1, Kfb, yo, knit to end
WS Row 6: S1, k2tog, knit to end
WS Row 8: S1, k2tog, * yo, k2tog; repeat from * to last 4sts, k4
Work Mesh Edging rows 1- 8, total 8 times. (as yarn allows)
(WS Row 8 stitch count:138,142,146, 150,154,158,162,166
(Save 12 yards/4g for EBO)
RS Rows 1, 3: K1, Kfb, yo, knit to end
WS Row 2: S1, k2tog, knit to end
WS Row 4: S1, k2tog, (yo, k2tog)48times, knit to end
RS Rows 5, 7: K1, Kfb, yo, knit to end
WS Row 6: S1, k2tog, knit to end
WS Row 8: S1, k2tog, * yo, k2tog; repeat from * to last 4sts, k4
Work Mesh Edging rows 1- 8, total 8 times. (as yarn allows)
(WS Row 8 stitch count: 170,174,178,182,186, 190,194,198)
(Save
18 yards/6g for EBO) This shawl was completed at 178sts!
Eyelet Rows (as yarn allows)
RS Rows 1, 3, 5, 7: K1, Kfb, yo, knit to end
WS Rows 2, 4, 6: S1, k2tog, knit to end
WS Row 8: S1, k2tog, * yo, k2tog; repeat from * to last 4sts, k4
Work Eyelet rows 1- 8, as yarn allows.
(WS Row 8 stitch count: 202, 206, 210, 214, 218, 222, 226, 230...)
(Save 24 yards/8g for EBO)
Finshing: Weave in the tails. Block loosely.
Time
to Hug Shawl is available on MarilynnsGardenKnitDesign.
Time to Hug Shawl pdf is available on Ravelry.
Copyright 2021, Marilynn Blacketer. All rights reserved. 6-15-21
For pattern support please contact: marilynnblacketer@gmail.com
Taking inspiration from the mission and guidelines of Wool-Aid, the Woolie Socks are designed to create a warm woolen pair of socks for a child who lives in the coldest climate and has the least access to resources. The Woolie Socks are worked with worsted weight wool yarn held with a fingering superwash wool blend. The socks are worked with a K1 x P1 cuff, and K3 x P1 leg and instep. These socks utilize an after-thought heel. The pattern is written with modifications for three sizes. This may be considered an intermediate level pattern because knowledge of sock and stitch construction are helpful.
Finished size: foot length 10”[9”, 8”] leg height 10”[9”, 9”]
Gauge: 5 stitches, 6 rows = 1” Adjust needle size, and row count to match gauge.
Materials: Yarn: 100% wool in worsted weight, held with superwash wool blend in fingering weight,
and 3 yards worsted waste yarn for set up after-thought heel
Photo: Wool of the Andes Worsted by Knit Picks, 2 skeins 100%Wool; 110 yards / 50grams, ; 2x 110 yards / 50grams = 220yards/100grams color 25066; Stroll Fingering by Knit Picks; 75% Wool, 25% Nylon; 462yards / 100 grams; color: bare hand-dyed, Sun Dyed with Safeway food coloring.
Needles: Size US#8(5mm), 12”, or 16”and 24” circular needles or size US#8 set double pointed needles to Cast On.
Size US#7(4.5mm), 16”and 24” circular needles or size US#7 set double pointed needles
(and smaller set double pointed needles to pick up stitches for after-thought heel)
Notions: tapestry needle, stitch markers
Resources: Socks Soar on Two Circular Needles, by Cat Bordhi;
Wool-Aid: Zannie’s general recipe for worsted + sock on size 7 needles:
https://www.ravelry.com/groups/wool-aid/pages/SOCKS-6
Abbreviations: CO= cast on K = knit
p=purl k2tog=knit 2 stitches together
MC=main color N=needle Rnd/s=round/s st/s=stitch/es
Directions: The directions are written for size teen,[child, small child in brackets], and working
with 2 circular needles. (notes are in italic) Make 2 socks.
With US#8(5mm) needles, use the long-tail cast-on method to cast on 40[36, 32]stitches.
Place marker & join together by knitting first stitch being careful not to twist.
Cuff Rnds 1- 14[12, 10]:With US#7(4.5mm) needles * K1, p1; repeat to end (2.5”[2.25”, 2”])
Leg Rnds: * K3, p1 repeat to end.
with 20[-,16] sts per needle, * K3, p1; repeat to end.
with [18sts per needle] N1: * K3, p1; repeat to last 2sts, k2. N2: k1,p1, * k3, p1; repeat to end
Work K3, p1 rib for leg 8”[7”,7”] from CO for desired height.
Instep and Heel set up:
With 20[-, 16sts] per needle, work front/instep N1 as established: * K3, p1; repeat to last st, do not knit last stitch, slip last stitch to back needle. (Now, 19, 21sts per needle [-, 15, 17sts per needle]
With [18sts per needle] Knit and move the first stitch to the back needle, work front/instep
N1: K2, p1 * K3, p1; repeat to last 2sts, k2. [Now, 17, 19sts per needle]
German Short Row Heel: Leave center 7[5, 5] stitches unworked.
Heel set
up: N2: Drop MCyarn, and with a strand of different
colored yarn knit across heel 21[19, 17] stitches. Turn, and with
the strand of different colored yarn purl back across heel to
end/beginning of needle. Drop colored strand, pick up MC, and knit
across heel 21[19, 1 7] stitches once more. After this, work instep
as currently established, and knit sole; the heel will be put in
later.
Instep and Sole: Work instep as
established, and knit sole until sock measures from heel (colored
yarn) marker 6”[5”, 5”] for
desired length.
German Short Row Heel: Work instep as
established, and knit sole until sock measures 8"[ 7",7"] for desired length.
Toe: Rnd 1 & odd rounds: (instep) * K1, k2tog, knit to the last 3 stitches on needle, k2tog, k1;
repeat from * to end(sole) (4sts decreased)
Rnd 2 & even rounds: Knit
Continue until 9[7,7]sts remain for instep, and 11[9,9]sts remain for sole.
This last Rnd 2: (instep) Knit 9[7,7]sts, (sole) K2tog, knit to last 2sts, k2tog
With 18[14, 14] stitches remaining, cut 18” yarn, and work Kitchener Stitch to finish the toe.
YOU worked the German Short Row Heel by Knit Purl Hunter. YOU do not need to work the after-thought heel.
Heel:
Carefully slide the
21[19, 17]sts below(sole), and 21[19, 17]sts above the colored
yarn(leg) to needles.
Carefully remove the
colored yarn.
Attach MC yarn, pick
up one stitch at the beginning of needle, as you knit a round, pick
up one stitch at
the end of the
needles. (46sts = 23sts per needle, and this will help avoid “holes”
on the heel sides.)
[42sts = 21sts per
needle, and this will help avoid “holes” on the heel sides.]
[38sts = 19sts per
needle, and this will help avoid “holes” on the heel sides.]
Now, work the heel
the same as the toe.
Rnd 1 & odd
rounds: * K1, k2tog, knit to the last 3 stitches on needle, k2tog,
k1;
repeat from * to end
(4 sts decreased)
Rnd 2 & even
rounds: Knit
Continue until
9[7,7]sts remain for leg, and 9[7,7]sts remain for sole.
With 18[14,14]
stitches remaining, cut 18” yarn, and work Kitchener Stitch to
finish the heel.
Finishing: Weave in tails. Make second sock.
This pattern is available on MarilynnsGardenKnitDesign.
Woolie Socks pattern pdf available at Ravelry.com
Copyright 2021, Marilynn Blacketer. All rights reserved. 5/10/21
For pattern support please contact: marilynnblacketer@gmail.com
Soaked 5 hanks of bare fingering in 8c water& 1c vinegar for 30 minutes.
Gathered jars, food color, gloves, table cloth, apron.
Boiled big pot of water....carefully carried that to the garden.
In jam jars: 1/4c vinegar & 3/4c water, added 10drops food color.
