Wednesday, January 17, 2018

TripCheck Shawlette


We always check the weather and road conditions before heading out on an adventure. WE also pack plenty of snacks and my knitting thus the name, TripCheck.
TripCheck is a reversible triangle shawlette with an increase worked near the left edge. The shawlette is created by working sets of “yo, k3tog, yoeyelet and rows of garter stitch. TripCheck might be considered an advance beginner pattern because knowledge of stitch and shawl construction are helpful. With an enjoyable eyelet pattern and a few rows of garter stitch, the shawlette can be completed in a few evenings, weekends, or while riding along as the passenger, making the TripCheck Shawlette the perfect gift or accessory.



Shawlette finished size: 25” depth, 60” wingspan

Gauge: 5 stitches & 5 ridges (garter stitch) = 1” Adjust needle size to create a soft fabric.

Materials: Yarn: Cotton or wool blend in fingering weight; 100grams/ 350~ 500yards

Photo: TripCheck Shawlette is knit in JazzHandz FusionFiber 
100% cotton; 100grams/ 480yards color: Lava

Needles: Size US#6(4mm), 24” circular needles

Notions: hanging and ring stitch markers, tapestry needle

Abbreviations: k = knit      Kfb= knit front&back       k3tog= knit 3 stitches together
k2togbl=knit 2sts together through the back loop       RS=right side WS=wrong side      
sts=stitches       yo=yarn over      S=slip stitch as purl w/yarn in back      EBO=elastic bind off

Directions: Cast on 5sts, WS: Knit (Notes in italic.)

Set Up Rows: Work fifteen garter ridges as follows:
RS rows 1-29 (odd rows): S1, knit to last 3sts, Kfb, k2.
WS rows 2-30 (even rows): S1, knit to end.
(The completion of the RS,WS “row/s” increases 1 stitch.) (20sts)
(I placed a beginning of row marker after 4sts, end of row marker 2sts from the left edge.)

TripCheck Eyelet Rows:
Work WS rows 2-16 (even rows): S1, knit to end.
Work the right side rows as follows:
RS row 1: S1, k3, * yo, k3tog, yo, k5; repeat from * (knit last few) to 3sts, Kfb, k2.
RS row 3: Sl, knit to last 3 sts, Kfb, k2.
RS row 5: S1, k3, * yo, k3tog, yo, k5; repeat from * (knit last few) to 3sts, Kfb, k2.
RS row 7: S1, knit to last 3sts, Kfb, k2.
RS row 9: Sl, k7, * yo, k3tog, yo, k5; repeat from * (knit last few) to 3sts, Kfb, k2.
RS row 11: S1, knit to last 3sts, Kfb, k2.
RS row 13: S1, k7, * yo, k3tog, yo, k5; repeat from * (knit last few) to 3sts, Kfb, k2.
RS row 15: S1, knit to last 3sts, Kfb, k2.
completion of rows 1-16: (28, 36, 44, 52, 60sts) (78, 86, 94, 102, 110sts) (128, 136, 144, 152, 160sts)
Repeat eyelet rows 1-16 five times.         (60sts)                           (110sts)                                (160sts)

Work ten garter ridges as follows:
RS rows 1-19 (odd rows): S1, knit to last 3sts, Kfb, k2.
WS rows 2-20 (even rows): Sl, knit to end.     (70sts)                     (120sts)                       (170sts)

Repeat TripCheck eyelet and garter stitch sequence until nearing end of yarn, completing a knit row, and saving 3 times the amount of yarn needed for one row to work the Elastic Bind Off.

RS: Elastic Bind Off: (Cast on, Bind Off, Cap Sease, p123 variation)
Sl, * k1, insert left needle into the front of both stitches on right needle from left to right, and k2togbl; repeat from * to end. (This will elastic bind-off one stitch.)

TripCheck, Lava: 100grams; I completed 152sts. With 10 yards of yarn available, EBO.
finished size: 24" depth, 46" wingspan
blocking: 25" depth, 60" wingspan

Finishing: Tie off. Weave in the tails. Block loosely.


Copyright 2018, Marilynn Blacketer. All rights reserved. 1/16/18
For pattern support please contact: marilynnblacketer@gmail.com
The TripCheck Shawlette pdf is available on Ravelry (login needed)

Here are photos of the process:
I am always excited when JazzHandz arrives!
I gathered supplies.
I worked the first TripCheck eyelet repeat and garter ridges.
I worked the second TripCheck eyelet repeat and garter ridges.
I had enough remaining yarn to work 5 repeats of the third eyelet and an elastic bind-off.  In my enthusiasm, I forgot to take a photo before blocking.  I blocked the TripCheck Shawlette using mats, wires and pins.
"Modeled" photos taken.
TripCheck Shawlette!










Wednesday, September 13, 2017

Woodland Park Hat


While in Seattle, enjoying a brisk morning at the Woodland Park Zoo, I noticed many people were wearing a hat that looked intriguing. A few weeks later, my friend wore that style of hat into the yoga studio, and let me turn it inside-out to take a good look at the construction. With Knit Picks, Wool of the Andes Bulky yarn, wool hats were designed, knitted and (soon to be) donated to Wool-Aid.







Woodland Park Hat
by Marilynn Blacketer '17
Taking inspiration from the mission and guidelines of Wool-Aid, Woodland Park Hat is designed to create a warm woolen hat for a child who lives in the coldest climate and has the least access to resources. The hat is worked with rounds of knit-purl rib, knit, and purl, giving the knitter something interesting to do, but keeping the texture simple enough for either gender. This may be considered an advanced beginner or intermediate pattern because knowledge of stitch and hat construction are helpful. This hat takes just a few hours to knit, making the Woodland Park Hat perfect for a charity such as Wool-Aid.




Finished size: Child: flat 15”, stretches to 20”circumference, height 10”
Gauge: 18 stitches, 20 rows = 4” k1,p1 rib
Materials: Yarn: wool in bulky weight; 137yards/100grams (per hat)
Photo: Woodland Park Hats are knit in Knit Picks, Wool of the Andes Bulky; colors: Hazelnut, Spruce
Needles: Size US #9(5.5mm), US #10(6mm), 16” circular needles, set size US#10, double pointed needles.
Notions: Stitch markers, tapestry needle
Abbreviations: CO=cast on       K=knit      k2tog=knit 2 stitches together      P=purl      Rnd/s=round/s      sts=stitches

Directions:   
Brim: With US#9(5.5mm) needles, CO 70, join to work in the round.
Rnds 1-15: * K1, p1; repeat from * to end (3”)
 
Hat: With US#10(6mm) needles,
Rnd 1: Knit
Rnds 2-5: Purl
Rnd 6: Knit
Rnds 7-10: * K1, p1; repeat from * to end
Work in pattern 9” from CO, ending on rnd 5.
 
Crown: Move to double pointed needles when needed.
Rnd 1: * Knit 10, place marker; repeat from * to end
Rnd 2: * K1, p1, to 2sts before marker, k2tog; repeat from * to end
Repeat Rnd 2 making the decreases until 1 stitch remains between markers. Remove markers.

Finishing: Cut 12” yarn, thread through remaining stitches, tie off neatly, and weave in tails for a very reversible hat!

This pattern is available on marilynnsgardenknitdesign.blogspot.com.
Woodland Park Hat pattern pdf available on Ravelry.com
Copyright 2017, Marilynn Blacketer. All rights reserved. 9/13/17
For pattern support please contact: marilynnblacketer@gmail.com


Tuesday, August 29, 2017

Yo Fibonacci Shawl(ette)

 (Math is Fun)         
The Fibonacci Sequence is the series of numbers: 0, 1, 1, 2, 3, 5, 8, 13, 21, 34...
The next number is found by adding up the two numbers before it.
  • The 2 is found by adding the two numbers before it (1+1)
  • The 3 is found by adding the two numbers before it (1+2),
  • And the 5 is (2+3),
  • and so on!
    About Fibonacci The Man: His real name was Leonardo Pisano Bogollo, and he lived between 1170 and 1250 in Italy. "Fibonacci" was his nickname, which roughly means "Son of Bonacci". 
  •  Fibonacci Day is November 23rd, as it has the digits "1, 1, 2, 3" which is part of the sequence. So next Nov 23 let everyone know!”


Yo Fibonacci Shawl(ette)
Marilynn Blacketer '17

The Yo Fibonacci Shawl is created by working with the beginning numbers of the Fibonacci sequence: 0, 1, 1, 2, 3, 5, 8, 13, 21, 34, alternating between Right Side row setsof knit, and Right Side row sets of “yo, k2tog”. Wrong Side Rows: Knit. The Yo Fibonacci Shawl might be considered an advance beginner pattern because knowledge of stitch and shawl construction are helpful. It takes a few evenings or weekends to complete, making the Yo Fibonacci Shawl a perfect gift or accessory.
Shawlette finished size: 20”depth, 60” wingspan
Shawl finished size: 24”depth, 80” wingspan
Gauge garter stitch: 20 stitches & 20 ridges = 4” to create loose soft fabric. Adjust needle size to create a soft fabric.
Materials: Yarn: Cotton or wool blend in fingering weight  
     Shawlette: 100grams/ ~450yards;  
     Shawl: 150-200grams/ 700-800yards
Photo: 
Yo Fibonacci Shawlette is knit in JazzHandz Fusion Fiber; 100 grams/480yards; color: Vacation 
Yo Fibonacci Shawl is knit in JazzHandz Fusion Fiber; 158 grams /~800 yards; color: Everywhere

Needles: Size US#6(4mm), 24” circular needles
Notions: hanging and ring stitch markers, tapestry needle; yarn or kitchen scale

Abbreviations:   k = knit    p= purl    Kfb= knit front&back     k2tog=knit 2 stitches together     k2togbl= knit 2 stitches together through the back loop    RS=right side    WS=wrong side sts=stitches    S=slip stitch as purl w/yarn in back    yo=yarn over     yo2= yarn over twice, drop the second yo in the next row     EBO=elastic bind off

Special Stitches:
Diagonal Openwork: (400 Knitting Stitches, Potter Craft, p 178 variation)
RS Row: * yo, k2tog; repeat from * to end. WS Row: Knit
These two rows create the Diagonal Openwork pattern.
Also RS Row: * yo2, k2tog; repeat from * to end. WS Row: Knit, drop the second yo in this row These two rows also create the Diagonal Openwork pattern.
Elastic Bind Off: (Cast on, Bind Off, Cap Sease, p123 variation)
Sl, * k1, insert left needle into the front of both stitches on right needle from left to right, and k2togbl; repeat from * This will elastic bind-off one stitch.
Picot: (Cast on, Bind Off, Cap Sease, p128 variation)
Cast on 3 stitches using the knit cast on as follows: Knit the first stitch, but leave the stitch on the left needle. Rotate the right needle clockwise, insert the tip of the left needle into the stitch from left to right, repeat twice more to make the 3 stitches. EBO the 3sts. This creates the Picot.


Directions: Cast on 8sts, WS: Knit (Notes in italic.)
Right Side Rows:
Working with the beginning numbers of the Fibonacci sequence: 0, 1, 1, 2, 3, 5, 8, 13, 21, 34,
Work WS Rows: EBO1, knit to end. (The completion of the RS,WS “row/s” increases 1 stitch.)
Work the right side rows as follows:
RS work 21 rows: S1 Kfb2, knit to end. (29sts)
RS work 1 row: S1, Kfb2, * yo, k2tog; repeat from * to last 2 or 3 sts, k2, or k3. (30sts)
RS work 1 rows: S1, Kfb2, knit to end. (31sts)
RS work 2 rows: S1, Kfb2, * yo, k2tog; repeat from * to last 2 or 3 sts, k2, or k3. (33sts)
RS work 3 rows: S1, Kfb2, knit to end. (36sts)
RS work 5 rows: S1, Kfb2, * yo, k2tog; repeat from * to last 2 or 3 sts, k2, or k3. (41sts)
RS work 8 rows: S1, Kfb2, knit to end. (49sts)
RS work 13 rows: S1, Kfb2, * yo, k2tog; repeat from * to last 2 or 3 sts, k2, or k3. (62sts)
RS work 21 rows: S1, Kfb2, knit to end. (83sts)
RS work 34 rows: S1, Kfb2, * yo, k2tog; repeat from * to last 2 or 3 sts, k2, or k3. (117sts)

Now, work the Fibonacci sequence as follows until nearing end of yarn***:
Work WS Rows: EBO1, knit to end, dropping second yo as needed.
RS work 3 rows: S1, Kfb2, knit to end. (120sts)
RS work 5 rows: S1, Kfb2, * yo2, k2tog; repeat from * to last 2 or 3 sts, k2, or k3. (125sts)
RS work 8 rows: S1, Kfb2, knit to end. (133sts)
RS work 13 rows: S1, Kfb2, * yo2, k2tog; repeat from * to last 2 or 3 sts, k2, or k3. (146sts)
RS work 21 rows: S1, Kfb2, knit to end. (167sts)
RS work 34 rows: S1, Kfb2, * yo2, k2tog; repeat from * to last 2 or 3 sts, k2, or k3. (201sts)

***Work the Yo Fibonacci sequence until nearing end of yarn, (If desired, ending at the completion of a Fibonacci number.) saving 4 times the amount needed for one row to complete the Picot Elastic Bind Off. Save 3 times the amounted needed for one row to complete the Elastic Bind Off

RS Elastic Bind Off:  Sl, * k1, insert left needle into the front of both stitches on right needle from left to right, and k2togbl; repeat from * to end.      
 
RS Picot Elastic Bind Off: * Cast on 3 stitches using the knit cast, then EBO 8 sts, place that stitch back on the left needle; repeat from * to end. (I placed the first hanging marker on the 6th stitch, other hanging marker on the 5th stitch thus 8 sts used in the picot elastic bind-off. At the end of the row, I created one more picot in the last stitch.)
Shawlette JazzHandz Vacation: I completed RS work 8(of 13) rows: yo2,k2tog”; 141sts. With many yards of yarn available, Picot EBO. finished size: 12" depth, 50" wingspan; blocking: 20" depth, 60"wingspan
Shawl JazzHandz Everywhere: I completed “RS work13(of 34) rows: yo2, k2tog”; 180sts. I played yarn chicken, and had only 12 yards yarn available, EBO. Finished size: 16”depth, 70”wingspan; blocking: 24”depth, 80”wingspan.

Finishing: Tie off. Weave in the tails. Block loosely.

Copyright 2017, Marilynn Blacketer. All rights reserved. 8-29-17
For pattern support please contact: marilynnblacketer@gmail.com
The Yo Fibonacci Shawl pdf is available on Ravelry (login needed)

Here are photos of the process:
Two cakes of JazzHandz Fusion Fiber arrived!
I selected the 150g Everywhere to start the Yo Fibonacci Shawl.
The shawl had used about 100grams.  I had 50grams remaining, I kept working!
As I neared the end of the project, and wanting to stay true to the Fibonacci numbers, I weighed the yarn, did some calculating and thought I'd have enough yarn for "RS work 13(of 34) yo2, k2tog."  There was enough yarn for those rows.
There was not enough yarn for the Picot Elastic Bind Off.  To solve that problem, I "tinked" knitted backwards the few stitches I'd worked with Picot EBO.  I had a life line set after completing "RS work 8(of 34)yo2, k2tog", but chose to keep the (5rows) of magenta, and complete the project with an Elastic Bind Off. 
It was time to block Yo Fibonacci Shawl!  I used 5 wires to help with the blocking.  


With 100g Vacation, I started the Yo Fibonacci Shawlette.
Nearing the end of the yarn), I weighed(25g) and calculated the possibility to  "RS work 13(of 21)yo2, k2tog.  As I completed "RS work 8(of 21) yo2, k2tog, I weighed the yarn(10g) and decided not to play yarn chicken. 
I placed the hanging markers, and worked the Picot Elastic Bind Off.
While the shawlette was still dry, I placed it on the shawl for a visual of the two project sizes.
It was time to block the Yo Fibonacci Shawlette!  I used 2 wires and many pins to help with the blocking.
 

Copyright 2017, Marilynn Blacketer. All rights reserved. 8-29-17
For pattern support please contact: marilynnblacketer@gmail.com
The Yo Fibonacci Shawl pdf is available on Ravelry (login needed)

Saturday, March 11, 2017

Ribbon Stitch Hat


Taking inspiration from the mission and guidelines of Wool-Aid, the Ribbon Stitch Hat is designed to create a warm woolen hat for a child who lives in the coldest climate and has the least access to resources. The hat is worked as a modification of Ribbon Stitch (400 knitting stitches, p168) giving the knitter something interesting to do, but keeping the texture simple enough for either gender. This may be considered an advanced beginner or intermediate pattern because you'll be working with two colors, just one per round, then slipping stitches. This hat takes just a few hours to knit, making the Ribbon Stitch Hat perfect for a charity such as Wool-Aid.

Finished size: Child: flat 15”, stretches to 20”circumference, height 10” 
 

Gauge: 16 stitches, 30 rows = 4”      garter stitch as presented in this pattern


Materials: Yarn: wool in bulky weight

Main color 103yards/75grams + Contrasting color 34yards/25grams = 137yards/100grams total

Photo: Ribbon Stitch Hat is knit in Knit Picks, Wool of the Andes Bulky ; 
Main color: Blackberry, Contrasting color: Avocado


Needles: Size US #9, US #10, 16” circular needles, set size US#10, double pointed needles.


Notions: Stitch markers, tapestry needle


Abbreviations: CO=cast on      K=knit k2tog=knit 2 stitches together       k2togbl=knit 2 stitches together through the back loop      P=purl      p2tog=purl 2 stitches together Rnd/s=round/s      sts=stitches      S=slip stitch purl-wise holding yarn to the back      MC=main color      CC=contrasting color


Directions:  
Brim: With US#9(5.5mm) needles, CO 64, join to work in the round.

MC rnds 1-15: K2, p2 rib, (3”)  

Hat: With US#10(6mm) needles,
MC rnd 1: Knit
MC rnd 2: Purl
MC rnd 3: Knit
CC rnd 4: * Knit 3, slip 1; repeat to end
CC rnd 5: * Purl 3, slip 1 ; repeat to end
Work in pattern 9” from CO, ending on rnd 5. (repeat rnds 1-5 nine times)
 

Crown Move to 4 double pointed needles when needed
MC rnd 1: * Knit 16, place marker; repeat to end
MC rnd 2: * P2tog, p 11, p2tog, p1; repeat to end
MC rnd 3:* k2tog, k 9, k2togbl, k1; repeat to end
CC rnd 4: * K1, S1, (k3, S1)twice, k1,S1; repeat to end
CC rnd 5: * P1, S1, (p2tog, p1, S1)twice, p1, S1; repeat to end
MC rnd 6: Knit
MC rnd 7: * P2tog, p5, p2tog, p1; repeat to end
MC rnd 8: * K2tog, k3,k2togbl, k1; repeat to end
CC rnd 9: * K2, S1; repeat to end
CC rnd 10: * P2tog, S1; repeat to end
MC rnd 11: Knit
MC rnd 12: * P2tog; repeat to end


Finishing: Cut 12” yarn, thread through remaining stitches. Tie off neatly. Weave in tails.

This pattern is available on marilynnsgardenknitdesign.blogspot.com.
Ribbon Stitch Hat pattern pdf available on Ravelry.com
Copyright 2017, Marilynn Blacketer. All rights reserved. 3-11-17
For pattern support please contact: marilynnblacketer@gmail.com
Here are photos of the process:
The box of yarn arrived from KnitPicks!
 

From the bulky yarn,  I selected the hanks of Avocado and Blackberry.  I also gathered tools.

With US#9(5.5mm) needles, CO64 stitches, and worked the K2, P2 ribbing for 15 rounds (3"). Then I knitted the first round of the hat onto US#10(6mm)needles ready to start the Ribbon Stitch pattern.

I worked the Ribbon Stitch pattern.  (Note: Looking at the ruler, I was early in setting the markers.)  Next time, to solve that problem, work 9 repeats of the Ribbon Stitch pattern, set markers at 16sts, and begin the crown decreases.

I moved to 4 double pointed needles, and knitted with the 5th to finish  the hat.  I had a couple rounds of MC yet to completed.
Ribbon Stitch Hat!  (Note:This hat was worked with 8 repeats of the Ribbon Stitch pattern, usually the hats are worked with 9 repeats.)
The Ribbon Stitch Hat has a great fold up brim!

Sunday, November 27, 2016

Sew What? Poncho

Yes, this is my knitting blog, but sometimes fleece and sewing seem like a better choice!  Two yards of fleece and 18" of sewing (twice) makes 2 ponchos!

My daughter crocheted this poncho!
Materials:        
2 yards fleece,
sewing thread    
Supplies:
yard stick or
measuring tape
scissors, pins
sewing machine
chalk or soap for marking details
30 minutes 
 Finished sizes: 
smaller: (66"fleece)  length 33", width 27"
larger:   (72"fleece)  length 36", width 30"


  Let me share photos of the process: 
I gathered materials and supplies.  I have enough fleece to make 4 ponchos.
I trimmed off the salvage edge.
We are small (almost 5').  I measured and cut the fleece vertically at  27" wide.  Full size: cut fleece vertically in half at 30"
I measured and cut the fleece at 66".  Full size: leave the fleece at 2yards,  72"
 I folded the fleece in half at 33", measured and pinned, leaving the fleece not sewn, near the fold, for a 14" opening.   I stitched a 16" seam, leaving 3" remaining for fringe.  Full size:  fold fleece in half at 36", measure and pin, leaving it not sewn, near the fold, for a 14.5" opening, stitch a 18.5" seam, and leave 3" remaining for fringe. 
Finished and turned, the poncho looked like this.  The seam is to our right.
On the blue poncho, I used a sliver of soap to mark the 3" up for the fringe.
I kept the yardstick near by to cut 1" wide fringe. 
Oops, happy accident!  I snipped a fringe on the under layer.  I knew to keep all of that out of reach, but I liked the 1/2" wide fringe.  To solve that problem, I then went back and snipped all the fringes again. 
Yes, this was a fun project!  I have 4 ponchos ready to gift for the holidays!

Copyright 2016, Marilynn Blacketer. All rights reserved. 11/27/16
for pattern support please contact marilynnblacketer@gmail.com