Wednesday, September 13, 2017

Woodland Park Hat


While in Seattle, enjoying a brisk morning at the Woodland Park Zoo, I noticed many people were wearing a hat that looked intriguing. A few weeks later, my friend wore that style of hat into the yoga studio, and let me turn it inside-out to take a good look at the construction. With Knit Picks, Wool of the Andes Bulky yarn, wool hats were designed, knitted and (soon to be) donated to Wool-Aid.







Woodland Park Hat
by Marilynn Blacketer '17
Taking inspiration from the mission and guidelines of Wool-Aid, Woodland Park Hat is designed to create a warm woolen hat for a child who lives in the coldest climate and has the least access to resources. The hat is worked with rounds of knit-purl rib, knit, and purl, giving the knitter something interesting to do, but keeping the texture simple enough for either gender. This may be considered an advanced beginner or intermediate pattern because knowledge of stitch and hat construction are helpful. This hat takes just a few hours to knit, making the Woodland Park Hat perfect for a charity such as Wool-Aid.




Finished size: Child: flat 15”, stretches to 20”circumference, height 10”
Gauge: 18 stitches, 20 rows = 4” k1,p1 rib
Materials: Yarn: wool in bulky weight; 137yards/100grams (per hat)
Photo: Woodland Park Hats are knit in Knit Picks, Wool of the Andes Bulky; colors: Hazelnut, Spruce
Needles: Size US #9(5.5mm), US #10(6mm), 16” circular needles, set size US#10, double pointed needles.
Notions: Stitch markers, tapestry needle
Abbreviations: CO=cast on       K=knit      k2tog=knit 2 stitches together      P=purl      Rnd/s=round/s      sts=stitches

Directions:   
Brim: With US#9(5.5mm) needles, CO 70, join to work in the round.
Rnds 1-15: * K1, p1; repeat from * to end (3”)
 
Hat: With US#10(6mm) needles,
Rnd 1: Knit
Rnds 2-5: Purl
Rnd 6: Knit
Rnds 7-10: * K1, p1; repeat from * to end
Work in pattern 9” from CO, ending on rnd 5.
 
Crown: Move to double pointed needles when needed.
Rnd 1: * Knit 10, place marker; repeat from * to end
Rnd 2: * K1, p1, to 2sts before marker, k2tog; repeat from * to end
Repeat Rnd 2 making the decreases until 1 stitch remains between markers. Remove markers.

Finishing: Cut 12” yarn, thread through remaining stitches, tie off neatly, and weave in tails for a very reversible hat!

This pattern is available on marilynnsgardenknitdesign.blogspot.com.
Woodland Park Hat pattern pdf available on Ravelry.com
Copyright 2017, Marilynn Blacketer. All rights reserved. 9/13/17
For pattern support please contact: marilynnblacketer@gmail.com


Tuesday, August 29, 2017

Yo Fibonacci Shawl(ette)

 (Math is Fun)         
The Fibonacci Sequence is the series of numbers: 0, 1, 1, 2, 3, 5, 8, 13, 21, 34...
The next number is found by adding up the two numbers before it.
  • The 2 is found by adding the two numbers before it (1+1)
  • The 3 is found by adding the two numbers before it (1+2),
  • And the 5 is (2+3),
  • and so on!
    About Fibonacci The Man: His real name was Leonardo Pisano Bogollo, and he lived between 1170 and 1250 in Italy. "Fibonacci" was his nickname, which roughly means "Son of Bonacci". 
  •  Fibonacci Day is November 23rd, as it has the digits "1, 1, 2, 3" which is part of the sequence. So next Nov 23 let everyone know!”


Yo Fibonacci Shawl(ette)
Marilynn Blacketer '17

The Yo Fibonacci Shawl is created by working with the beginning numbers of the Fibonacci sequence: 0, 1, 1, 2, 3, 5, 8, 13, 21, 34, alternating between Right Side row setsof knit, and Right Side row sets of “yo, k2tog”. Wrong Side Rows: Knit. The Yo Fibonacci Shawl might be considered an advance beginner pattern because knowledge of stitch and shawl construction are helpful. It takes a few evenings or weekends to complete, making the Yo Fibonacci Shawl a perfect gift or accessory.
Shawlette finished size: 20”depth, 60” wingspan
Shawl finished size: 24”depth, 80” wingspan
Gauge garter stitch: 20 stitches & 20 ridges = 4” to create loose soft fabric. Adjust needle size to create a soft fabric.
Materials: Yarn: Cotton or wool blend in fingering weight  
     Shawlette: 100grams/ ~450yards;  
     Shawl: 150-200grams/ 700-800yards
Photo: 
Yo Fibonacci Shawlette is knit in JazzHandz Fusion Fiber; 100 grams/480yards; color: Vacation 
Yo Fibonacci Shawl is knit in JazzHandz Fusion Fiber; 158 grams /~800 yards; color: Everywhere

Needles: Size US#6(4mm), 24” circular needles
Notions: hanging and ring stitch markers, tapestry needle; yarn or kitchen scale

Abbreviations:   k = knit    p= purl    Kfb= knit front&back     k2tog=knit 2 stitches together     k2togbl= knit 2 stitches together through the back loop    RS=right side    WS=wrong side sts=stitches    S=slip stitch as purl w/yarn in back    yo=yarn over     yo2= yarn over twice, drop the second yo in the next row     EBO=elastic bind off

Special Stitches:
Diagonal Openwork: (400 Knitting Stitches, Potter Craft, p 178 variation)
RS Row: * yo, k2tog; repeat from * to end. WS Row: Knit
These two rows create the Diagonal Openwork pattern.
Also RS Row: * yo2, k2tog; repeat from * to end. WS Row: Knit, drop the second yo in this row These two rows also create the Diagonal Openwork pattern.
Elastic Bind Off: (Cast on, Bind Off, Cap Sease, p123 variation)
Sl, * k1, insert left needle into the front of both stitches on right needle from left to right, and k2togbl; repeat from * This will elastic bind-off one stitch.
Picot: (Cast on, Bind Off, Cap Sease, p128 variation)
Cast on 3 stitches using the knit cast on as follows: Knit the first stitch, but leave the stitch on the left needle. Rotate the right needle clockwise, insert the tip of the left needle into the stitch from left to right, repeat twice more to make the 3 stitches. EBO the 3sts. This creates the Picot.


Directions: Cast on 8sts, WS: Knit (Notes in italic.)
Right Side Rows:
Working with the beginning numbers of the Fibonacci sequence: 0, 1, 1, 2, 3, 5, 8, 13, 21, 34,
Work WS Rows: EBO1, knit to end. (The completion of the RS,WS “row/s” increases 1 stitch.)
Work the right side rows as follows:
RS work 21 rows: S1 Kfb2, knit to end. (29sts)
RS work 1 row: S1, Kfb2, * yo, k2tog; repeat from * to last 2 or 3 sts, k2, or k3. (30sts)
RS work 1 rows: S1, Kfb2, knit to end. (31sts)
RS work 2 rows: S1, Kfb2, * yo, k2tog; repeat from * to last 2 or 3 sts, k2, or k3. (33sts)
RS work 3 rows: S1, Kfb2, knit to end. (36sts)
RS work 5 rows: S1, Kfb2, * yo, k2tog; repeat from * to last 2 or 3 sts, k2, or k3. (41sts)
RS work 8 rows: S1, Kfb2, knit to end. (49sts)
RS work 13 rows: S1, Kfb2, * yo, k2tog; repeat from * to last 2 or 3 sts, k2, or k3. (62sts)
RS work 21 rows: S1, Kfb2, knit to end. (83sts)
RS work 34 rows: S1, Kfb2, * yo, k2tog; repeat from * to last 2 or 3 sts, k2, or k3. (117sts)

Now, work the Fibonacci sequence as follows until nearing end of yarn***:
Work WS Rows: EBO1, knit to end, dropping second yo as needed.
RS work 3 rows: S1, Kfb2, knit to end. (120sts)
RS work 5 rows: S1, Kfb2, * yo2, k2tog; repeat from * to last 2 or 3 sts, k2, or k3. (125sts)
RS work 8 rows: S1, Kfb2, knit to end. (133sts)
RS work 13 rows: S1, Kfb2, * yo2, k2tog; repeat from * to last 2 or 3 sts, k2, or k3. (146sts)
RS work 21 rows: S1, Kfb2, knit to end. (167sts)
RS work 34 rows: S1, Kfb2, * yo2, k2tog; repeat from * to last 2 or 3 sts, k2, or k3. (201sts)

***Work the Yo Fibonacci sequence until nearing end of yarn, (If desired, ending at the completion of a Fibonacci number.) saving 4 times the amount needed for one row to complete the Picot Elastic Bind Off. Save 3 times the amounted needed for one row to complete the Elastic Bind Off

RS Elastic Bind Off:  Sl, * k1, insert left needle into the front of both stitches on right needle from left to right, and k2togbl; repeat from * to end.      
 
RS Picot Elastic Bind Off: * Cast on 3 stitches using the knit cast, then EBO 8 sts, place that stitch back on the left needle; repeat from * to end. (I placed the first hanging marker on the 6th stitch, other hanging marker on the 5th stitch thus 8 sts used in the picot elastic bind-off. At the end of the row, I created one more picot in the last stitch.)
Shawlette JazzHandz Vacation: I completed RS work 8(of 13) rows: yo2,k2tog”; 141sts. With many yards of yarn available, Picot EBO. finished size: 12" depth, 50" wingspan; blocking: 20" depth, 60"wingspan
Shawl JazzHandz Everywhere: I completed “RS work13(of 34) rows: yo2, k2tog”; 180sts. I played yarn chicken, and had only 12 yards yarn available, EBO. Finished size: 16”depth, 70”wingspan; blocking: 24”depth, 80”wingspan.

Finishing: Tie off. Weave in the tails. Block loosely.

Copyright 2017, Marilynn Blacketer. All rights reserved. 8-29-17
For pattern support please contact: marilynnblacketer@gmail.com
The Yo Fibonacci Shawl pdf is available on Ravelry (login needed)

Here are photos of the process:
Two cakes of JazzHandz Fusion Fiber arrived!
I selected the 150g Everywhere to start the Yo Fibonacci Shawl.
The shawl had used about 100grams.  I had 50grams remaining, I kept working!
As I neared the end of the project, and wanting to stay true to the Fibonacci numbers, I weighed the yarn, did some calculating and thought I'd have enough yarn for "RS work 13(of 34) yo2, k2tog."  There was enough yarn for those rows.
There was not enough yarn for the Picot Elastic Bind Off.  To solve that problem, I "tinked" knitted backwards the few stitches I'd worked with Picot EBO.  I had a life line set after completing "RS work 8(of 34)yo2, k2tog", but chose to keep the (5rows) of magenta, and complete the project with an Elastic Bind Off. 
It was time to block Yo Fibonacci Shawl!  I used 5 wires to help with the blocking.  


With 100g Vacation, I started the Yo Fibonacci Shawlette.
Nearing the end of the yarn), I weighed(25g) and calculated the possibility to  "RS work 13(of 21)yo2, k2tog.  As I completed "RS work 8(of 21) yo2, k2tog, I weighed the yarn(10g) and decided not to play yarn chicken. 
I placed the hanging markers, and worked the Picot Elastic Bind Off.
While the shawlette was still dry, I placed it on the shawl for a visual of the two project sizes.
It was time to block the Yo Fibonacci Shawlette!  I used 2 wires and many pins to help with the blocking.
 

Copyright 2017, Marilynn Blacketer. All rights reserved. 8-29-17
For pattern support please contact: marilynnblacketer@gmail.com
The Yo Fibonacci Shawl pdf is available on Ravelry (login needed)

Saturday, March 11, 2017

Ribbon Stitch Hat


Taking inspiration from the mission and guidelines of Wool-Aid, the Ribbon Stitch Hat is designed to create a warm woolen hat for a child who lives in the coldest climate and has the least access to resources. The hat is worked as a modification of Ribbon Stitch (400 knitting stitches, p168) giving the knitter something interesting to do, but keeping the texture simple enough for either gender. This may be considered an advanced beginner or intermediate pattern because you'll be working with two colors, just one per round, then slipping stitches. This hat takes just a few hours to knit, making the Ribbon Stitch Hat perfect for a charity such as Wool-Aid.

Finished size: Child: flat 15”, stretches to 20”circumference, height 10” 
 

Gauge: 16 stitches, 30 rows = 4”      garter stitch as presented in this pattern


Materials: Yarn: wool in bulky weight

Main color 103yards/75grams + Contrasting color 34yards/25grams = 137yards/100grams total

Photo: Ribbon Stitch Hat is knit in Knit Picks, Wool of the Andes Bulky ; 
Main color: Blackberry, Contrasting color: Avocado


Needles: Size US #9, US #10, 16” circular needles, set size US#10, double pointed needles.


Notions: Stitch markers, tapestry needle


Abbreviations: CO=cast on      K=knit k2tog=knit 2 stitches together       k2togbl=knit 2 stitches together through the back loop      P=purl      p2tog=purl 2 stitches together Rnd/s=round/s      sts=stitches      S=slip stitch purl-wise holding yarn to the back      MC=main color      CC=contrasting color


Directions:  
Brim: With US#9(5.5mm) needles, CO 64, join to work in the round.

MC rnds 1-15: K2, p2 rib, (3”)  

Hat: With US#10(6mm) needles,
MC rnd 1: Knit
MC rnd 2: Purl
MC rnd 3: Knit
CC rnd 4: * Knit 3, slip 1; repeat to end
CC rnd 5: * Purl 3, slip 1 ; repeat to end
Work in pattern 9” from CO, ending on rnd 5. (repeat rnds 1-5 nine times)
 

Crown Move to 4 double pointed needles when needed
MC rnd 1: * Knit 16, place marker; repeat to end
MC rnd 2: * P2tog, p 11, p2tog, p1; repeat to end
MC rnd 3:* k2tog, k 9, k2togbl, k1; repeat to end
CC rnd 4: * K1, S1, (k3, S1)twice, k1,S1; repeat to end
CC rnd 5: * P1, S1, (p2tog, p1, S1)twice, p1, S1; repeat to end
MC rnd 6: Knit
MC rnd 7: * P2tog, p5, p2tog, p1; repeat to end
MC rnd 8: * K2tog, k3,k2togbl, k1; repeat to end
CC rnd 9: * K2, S1; repeat to end
CC rnd 10: * P2tog, S1; repeat to end
MC rnd 11: Knit
MC rnd 12: * P2tog; repeat to end


Finishing: Cut 12” yarn, thread through remaining stitches. Tie off neatly. Weave in tails.

This pattern is available on marilynnsgardenknitdesign.blogspot.com.
Ribbon Stitch Hat pattern pdf available on Ravelry.com
Copyright 2017, Marilynn Blacketer. All rights reserved. 3-11-17
For pattern support please contact: marilynnblacketer@gmail.com
Here are photos of the process:
The box of yarn arrived from KnitPicks!
 

From the bulky yarn,  I selected the hanks of Avocado and Blackberry.  I also gathered tools.

With US#9(5.5mm) needles, CO64 stitches, and worked the K2, P2 ribbing for 15 rounds (3"). Then I knitted the first round of the hat onto US#10(6mm)needles ready to start the Ribbon Stitch pattern.

I worked the Ribbon Stitch pattern.  (Note: Looking at the ruler, I was early in setting the markers.)  Next time, to solve that problem, work 9 repeats of the Ribbon Stitch pattern, set markers at 16sts, and begin the crown decreases.

I moved to 4 double pointed needles, and knitted with the 5th to finish  the hat.  I had a couple rounds of MC yet to completed.
Ribbon Stitch Hat!  (Note:This hat was worked with 8 repeats of the Ribbon Stitch pattern, usually the hats are worked with 9 repeats.)
The Ribbon Stitch Hat has a great fold up brim!

Sunday, November 27, 2016

Sew What? Poncho

Yes, this is my knitting blog, but sometimes fleece and sewing seem like a better choice!  Two yards of fleece and 18" of sewing (twice) makes 2 ponchos!

My daughter crocheted this poncho!
Materials:        
2 yards fleece,
sewing thread    
Supplies:
yard stick or
measuring tape
scissors, pins
sewing machine
chalk or soap for marking details
30 minutes 
 Finished sizes: 
smaller: (66"fleece)  length 33", width 27"
larger:   (72"fleece)  length 36", width 30"


  Let me share photos of the process: 
I gathered materials and supplies.  I have enough fleece to make 4 ponchos.
I trimmed off the salvage edge.
We are small (almost 5').  I measured and cut the fleece vertically at  27" wide.  Full size: cut fleece vertically in half at 30"
I measured and cut the fleece at 66".  Full size: leave the fleece at 2yards,  72"
 I folded the fleece in half at 33", measured and pinned, leaving the fleece not sewn, near the fold, for a 14" opening.   I stitched a 16" seam, leaving 3" remaining for fringe.  Full size:  fold fleece in half at 36", measure and pin, leaving it not sewn, near the fold, for a 14.5" opening, stitch a 18.5" seam, and leave 3" remaining for fringe. 
Finished and turned, the poncho looked like this.  The seam is to our right.
On the blue poncho, I used a sliver of soap to mark the 3" up for the fringe.
I kept the yardstick near by to cut 1" wide fringe. 
Oops, happy accident!  I snipped a fringe on the under layer.  I knew to keep all of that out of reach, but I liked the 1/2" wide fringe.  To solve that problem, I then went back and snipped all the fringes again. 
Yes, this was a fun project!  I have 4 ponchos ready to gift for the holidays!

Copyright 2016, Marilynn Blacketer. All rights reserved. 11/27/16
for pattern support please contact marilynnblacketer@gmail.com 





Saturday, November 19, 2016

What's up Buttercup?!

11/2/16 Yes, I finished the What’s Up Buttercup?!   While I was typing these notes, I got the phone call… YES, a baby girl has arrived, and this Grams is ready to gift her a sweater! 

Buttercup Baby
Marilynn Blacketer '16
The Buttercup Baby works well in DK acrylic, or wool blend. The wrap can be finished in a weekend or two, and makes a perfect gift or accessory for any little one. This may be considered an intermediate level pattern because you'll be making unique yoke increases and working the garter stitch border at the same time. The wrap is designed to fit a newborn or infant, with bigger needles and yarn, this can easily be made larger to fit a toddler.
Finished sizes:
Newborn: 14” chest, 8” height neck to hem, 5” sleeve
3-6mo Infant: 16” chest, 10” height neck to hem, 6” sleeve
Gauge: US#5, 6 stitches = 1”; US#6, 5.5 stitches = 1” Adjust needle size to match gauge.
Materials: Yarn: acrylic or wool blend in DK;
Newborn: Main color, 174yards, 50grams; Contrasting color, 90yards, 25grams
Infant: Main color, 210yards, 60grams; Contrasting color, 90yards, 25grams
Photo:Buttercup Baby, size Infant, was knit in Plymouth Yarn Dreambaby DK Paintpot; 50% acrylic, 50% nylon; main color 1406; & Plymouth Yarn Dreambaby DK; 50% acrylic, 50% nylon; contrasting color 142 yellow
Needles: Newborn: Size US#4, Newborn & Infant:Size US#5 , Infant: US#6, 16”, 24” circular needles; and/or sets double pointed needles (for sleeves)
Notions: Stitch markers, tapestry needle, two ½ ” buttons, yarn/kitchen scale
Abbreviations: CO=cast on       K=knit k2tog=knit 2 stitches together       p=purl      KFB=knit front&back      pm=place marker       rm=remove marker       sm=slip marker Rnd=round      sts=stitches       RS=right side      WS=wrong side      yo=yarn over      MC=main color      CC=contrasting color
Buttercup Baby Directions Directions are written for newborn [infant in brackets]. (Notes are in italic.)
Getting Started: Pull, do not cut, and wind 5 grams of CC into a ball. (This is enough CC yarn to complete the border and one sleeve.)
Neckband: With CC, use long tail CO making the slip knot with the 5 gram (very long) tail and skein, with size #4 [#5] circular needles, CO 31 sts. Do not join, work back and forth in rows.
Set up(WS): with skein CC, Knit3, pm, k5, pm, knit15, pm, k5, pm, k3
Row 1(RS): with skein CC, KFB, k2, sm, KFB, k3, KFB, sm, KFB, k13, KFB, sm, KFB, k3, KFB, sm, k1, KFB, k1 (39sts)
Row 2 (WS): with ball CC, Knit
Row 3(RS): with ball CC, KFB, k3, sm, KFB, k5, KFB, sm, KFB, k15, KFB, sm, KFB, k5, KFB, sm, k2, KFB, k1 (47sts)
Row 4(WS): with skein CC, Knit (the ball is resting, and will be available for the right front border, but the sweater is worked upside down so this is your work to the left)
Yoke and Front Borders:
Row 1(RS): with CC, with size #5 [# 6], 24”circular needles, Knit 3, pick up MC and knit both CC&MC in the fourth stitch, drop CC, with MC * knit to 1stitch before marker, yo, k, sm, k, yo; repeat from * to last 4sts, pick up CC and knit both CC&MC in the same stitch, drop MC, with CC, knit 3 (10 sts increased on RS rows) (This first row, you're right there, just yo, knit, sm, ... at the last 4 sts, yo as you pick up CC to knit MC&CC in the same stitch)
Row 2(WS): with CC, Knit 4, bring the CC forward, with MC, purl to last 4 sts, with CC, knit 4 (You may need to work sts 4&5 out of order to keep borders even)

Rows 3-8: Repeat Rows 1 and 2.
Row 9(RS): with CC, * Knit to 1stitch before marker, yo, k, sm, k, yo; repeat from * to end (8sts increased on RS row)
Row 10(WS): with skein CC, Knit 4, purl to last 4 sts, knit 4 (Row 10: 95sts, Row 20:143sts)
Repeat Rows 1-10 a total of 2 times and Rows1&2 twice more. (163sts)

Divide Body and Sleeves:
RS: with CC Knit 3, pick up MC and knit both CC&MC in the fourth stitch, drop CC, with MC knit to 1st marker, sm, slip33 sleeve sts onto holder, rm, CO3 underarm sts, k43 across back, rm, slip33 sleeve sts onto holder, CO3 underarm sts, sm, knit to last 4sts, pick up CC and knit both CC&MC in the same stitch, drop MC, with CC knit 3 (front 28sts, back 49sts, front 28sts= 105sts)
WS: with CC, Knit 4, with MC, purl to last 4 sts, with CC, knit 4 (105sts)

Body and Front Borders:
Row 1 (RS): with CC, Knit 3, pick up MC and knit both CC&MC in the fourth stitch, drop CC, with MC * knit to last 4sts, pick up CC and knit both CC&MC in the same stitch, drop MC, with CC knit 3 (2sts increased RS rows)
Row 2 (WS): with CC, knit 4, with MC, purl to last 4 sts, with CC, knit 4
Rows 3-8: Repeat Rows 1 and 2. (as established, you are ready for Rows 7-8)
Row 9(RS): with CC, Knit (no stitches increased on RS row)
Row 10(WS): with skein CC, Knit 4, purl to last 4 sts, knit 4 (Row 10 counts: 107, 115, 123, [131]sts)
Repeat Rows 1-10 (from the neck) total 5 [6] times, and Rows 1-8 again.(4.5” [5.5”]from underarm, 131[139]sts)

Bottom Eyelet Border: (cut MC, cut ball CC, place hanging markers to note sides, remove markers)
Rows 1, 2: with CC, with size#4 [#5], 24”circular needle, Knit
Row 3(RS): with CC, Knit 3[2], * k2tog, yo, k1; repeat from * to last 2sts, knit 2
Rows 4, 5, 6: with CC, Knit (131 [139]sts)
Row 7(RS): with size#5 [#6] needle, Bind Off loosely in knit, to last 2sts, k2tog, Bind Off.

Sleeves:
Move 33 stitches from holder onto size #5 [#6] circular/or double pointed needles. Pick up and knit 5 sts from underarm, pm, pick up and knit 5 more sts, and join to work in the round. 43sts
Rnds 1-4: with MC, Knit
Rnd 5: with MC, K1, k2tog, knit to last 2 sts before marker, k2tog
Work stripes as established Rnds 9-10: with CC, knit ,decrease if necessary. (Carry CC at first stitch of Rnd 5)
Repeat Rnds 1-5 a total of 5 times (33sts)
Work even until sleeve measures 4.5” [5.5 ”] from underarm, and ending on a Rnd 8.

Cuff Eyelet: (cut MC)
Rnd 1: with CC, with size #4 [#5] needles, Knit
Rnd 2: with CC, Purl
Rnd 3: with CC, * K2tog, yo, k1; repeat from * to end
Rnd 4: with CC, Purl
Rnd 5: with CC, Knit
Rnd 6: with CC, Purl
Rnd 7: with CC, with size #5 [#6] needle, Bind Off loosely in knit.
Repeat for other sleeve.
Finishing: Weave in all the tails. Very securely sew 1/2” buttons to front left side and border. The right eyelet border will be used as the button holes .
Buttercup Baby is available at MarilynnsGardenKnitDesign.blogspot.com
Buttercup Baby Wrap pattern pdf is available on Ravelry.com (login needed)

Copyright 2016, Marilynn Blacketer. All rights reserved. 11/20/16

For pattern support please contact: marilynnblacketer@gmail.com
Here are a few photos of the process:  
Started by working the CC neckband, and joined MC to work the yoke with CC borders.
 Using #4 needles as the stitch holders, I divided for the sleeves.

Worked the body, cut MC and ball CC to work the bottom eyelet border. 
Picked up the stitches, knitted the sleeve onto #6 needles, and worked both sleeve on two circular needles.  Used #5 needles to work the cuff. 
I securely stitched on two buttons. 
 
I tested the pattern by knitting another Buttercup Baby.
 Buttercup Baby is available at MarilynnsGardenKnitDesign.blogspot.com
Buttercup Baby Wrap pattern pdf is available on Ravelry.com (login needed)
Copyright 2016, Marilynn Blacketer. All rights reserved. 11/20/16
For pattern support please contact: marilynnblacketer@gmail.com