Crazy 8 Mystery Mittens

Today, I am feeling Crazy!   ?!Let's post a mystery mitten and see what happens?!

Taking inspiration from the mission and guidelines of Wool-Aid, Crazy 8 Cable Mittens are designed to create warm woolen mittens for a child who lives in the coldest climate and has the least access to resources. The cables are worked with 5 stitches held to back, and 3 knit from the left. The set is worked with rhythmic rib patterns, can be knit in a weekend or two, and makes the mittens perfect for a charity such as Wool Aid. This may be considered an intermediate level pattern because knowledge of cable and stitch construction is helpful.

Finished size: Adult/teen

Mittens: flat 6”, stretch to 12” circumference;  height 12”

Gauge: 5 stitches = 1” Adjust needle size to match gauge.

Materials:

Yarn: bulky wool 200 yards,150grams

Photo: Crazy 8 Cable Mittens are knit in Knit Picks Wool of the Andes Bulky, color: Navy

Needles: Size US#8 (5mm) your choice: two 16”or 24”circular needles, or 9”circular needles, and

size US#8 set of double pointed needles for the mittens.

Notions: Stitch markers, cable needle, tapestry needle, 2 yards yarn different color,

set of smaller double pointed needles

Abbreviations: 

  k = knit      p= purl      Rnd/s=round/s

 yo= yarn over       k2tog=knit 2 together

p2tog=purl 2 together       st/s=stitch/es

M1= make one stitch

(Helpful hint: I prefer the M1 (m1tbp): place point of working (right-hand) needle behind other needle, inserting needle from the top through the purl stitch below next stitch, and knit, then knit the stitch above.)

Special Stitches:

t3 = twist3: slip one stitch, knit1, yarn over, knit1, pass slipped stitch over the three stitches

c8B = cable 8 Back: slip 5 stitches to cable needle and hold in back of work, knit 3 from the left-hand needle, then work the 5 stitches from cable needle as purl 2, knit 3.

Directions: Make two mittens.

Use the long-tail cast-on method, with size US#8, your choice of two16” circular needles, set of double pointed needles, or 9” circular needle. The mittens are worked from wrist to fingers.

(Helpful hint: I prefer working both mittens, at the same time, on two 16”circular needle. KNITTING circles around SOCKS by Antje Gillingham is an excellent resource for getting started.)

Cast on 40 stitches. Place marker & join together by knitting first stitch being careful not to twist.

Work ribbing as follows:

Rib rnds 1-13: * K2, p2; repeat from * to end                      40 sts (back of hand 16sts, palm 24sts)

Rib rnd 14: (M1, k2, p2)4 times; * k2, p2; repeat from * to end.      44sts (back of hand 20sts, palm 24sts)

Rib rnd 15: t3, p2, c8B, p2, t3, p2, * k2, p2; repeat from * to end.

Work mitten/s as follows:

Rnds 1- 4: (back of hand) (K3, p2)4 times, (palm) * k2, p2; repeat from * to end.

Rnd 5: t3, p2, (k3, p2) twice, t3, p2, * k2, p2; repeat from * to end.

Rnds 6 - 9: (K3, p2)4 times, * k2, p2; repeat from * to end.

Rnd 10: t3, p2, (k3, p2) twice, t3, p2, * k2, p2; repeat from * to end.

Rnds 11 -14: (K3, p2)4 times, * k2, p2; repeat from * to end.

Rnd 15: t3, p2, c8B, p2, t3, p2, * k2, p2; repeat from * to end.

Rnds 16- 19: (K3, p2)4 times, * k2, p2; repeat from * to end.

Rnd 20: t3, p2, (k3, p2)twice t3, p2, * k2, p2; repeat from * to end.

(The mittens are identical. The next five rounds will determine the right and left thumb placement.)

Right thumb gusset:

Rnd 21: (back of hand) (K3, p2)4times, then (palm)k2, p2, pm, (M1,k1)twice, pm, p2, *k2, p2; repeat from * to end.

Rnd 22: (K3, p2)4times, then k2, p2, sm, k4, sm, p2, * k2, p2; repeat from * to end

Rnd 23: (K3, p2)4times, then k2, p2, sm, M1,k1, k2, M1,k1, sm, p2, * k2, p2; repeat from * to end

Rnd 24: (K3, p2)4times, then k2, p2, sm, k6, sm, p2, * k2, p2; repeat from * to end. (48sts)

Right thumb opening:

Rnd 25:(back of hand) t3, p2, (k3, p2)twice, t3, p2, then (palm)k2, p2, drop MC yarn, with a strand of different colored yarn(working between markers), k6, turn, p6 back. Drop colored strand, pick up MC, k6 across 6 stitches once more, and continue p2, * k2, p2; repeat to end. The thumb will be put in later.

Left thumb gusset:

Rnd 21: (back of hand) (K3, p2)4times, then (palm)(k2, p2)4times, pm, (M1,k1)twice, pm, p2, k2, p2.

Rnd 22: (K3, p2)4times, then (k2, p2)4times, sm, k4, sm, p2, k2, p2.

Rnd 23: (K3, p2)4times, then (k2, p2)4times, sm, M1,k1, k2, M1,k1, sm, p2, k2, p2.

Rnd 24: (K3, p2)4times, then (k2, p2)4times, sm, k6, sm, p2, k2, p2. (48sts)

Left thumb opening:

Rnd 25: (back of hand) t3, p2, (k3, p2)twice, t3, p2, then (palm)(k2, p2)4times, drop MC yarn, with a strand of different colored yarn(working between markers), k6, turn, p6 back. Drop colored strand, pick up MC, k6 across 6 stitches once more, p2, k2, p2. The thumb will be put in later.

Continue to work mitten/s as follows:       (remove markers)

Rnds 26- 29: (K3, p2)4 times; * k2, p2; repeat from * to end

Rnd 30: t3, p2, c8B, p2, t3, p2, * k2, p2; repeat from * to end

Rnds 31- 50: work mitten Rnds 1-20.

                            (4.5” from yarn thumb marker)

Work mitten decreases as follows:

Rnd 1: (K3, p2)4times, * k2, p2; repeat from * to end.

Rnd 2: (K3, p2tog)4times, * k2, p2tog; repeat from * to end.

Rnd 3: (K1, k2tog, p1)4times, * k2, p1; repeat from * to end.

Rnd 4: *K2, p1; repeat from * to end.

Rnd 5: *K2tog, p1; repeat from * to end.

Rnd 6: *K1, p1; repeat from * to end.

Rnd 7: *K2tog; repeat from * to end.

Cut 12” yarn, and thread end through remaining stitches. Pull together, and tie off neatly.

Work thumb/s as follows: 
Carefully slide the 6sts below, and 6sts above the colored yarn to 2 (smaller spare) double pointed needles. Carefully remove the colored yarn.

Attach MC yarn, working with Size US #8, double pointed needles, k2, p2, k2, then pick up 2 stitches and purling at the end of each needle, working one round. (You'll have the rib pattern established, and 8sts on the two needles. This will help avoid “holes” on the sides, and offer comfort for the thumb.) Now, work the thumb onto 3 double pointed needles, or two circular needles.

Thumb rnds 1-13: * K2, p2; repeat from * to end.

Work the thumb 2.5” then begin the thumb decreases.

Work thumb decreases as follows:

Rnd 1: * K2, p2tog; repeat from * to end

Rnd 2: * K2, p1; repeat from * to end

Rnd 3: * K2tog, p1; repeat from * to end

Rds 4: * K2tog; repeat from * to end

Cut 12” yarn, and thread end through remaining stitches. Pull together, and tie off neatly.

Finishing: Weave in tails. Make the second mitten.

This mystery pattern is available on http://marilynnsgardenknitdesign.blogspot.com

This pattern is not yet available on Ravelry.com

Copyright 2018, Marilynn Blacketer. All rights reserved. 5/07/18

Please contact me  Ravelry . "send a message"

For pattern support please contact: marilynnblacketer@gmail.com

Circle Creek Shawl

Taking inspiration from the dedicated conservation work of the North Coast Land Conservancy, and one of our largest habitat reserves, Circle Creek Conservation Center, I have developed the Circle Creek Shawl. If the Circle Creek Shawl is knit in a cotton blend, perfect for cool spring and summer evenings. If knit in blended wool, great for the blustery winter. The shawl is worked with 2 increases on both right side edges and a few increases throughout the middle, creating a crescent shawl with plenty of wingspan.  This might be considered an advance beginner pattern because knowledge of stitch and shawl construction are helpful. It takes a few evenings or weekends to complete, making the Circle Creek Shawl a perfect gift or accessory.

Shawl finished size: 22”depth, 80” wingspan

Gauge:5 stitches & 5 ridges = 1”(garter stitch) to create loose soft fabric.

Materials: Yarn: Cotton or wool blend in fingering weight 150-200grams/ 750-800yards

Photo: Circle Creek Shawl is knit in JazzHandzFusionFiber.etsy.com; 150 grams / 720yards Cotton Fingering Weight Color Changing Gradient Yarn – progressive Dark Forest (black - green)

Needles: Size US#6(4mm), 40”circular needles

Notions: many hanging and ring stitch markers, tapestry needle, kitchen/yarn scale

Abbreviations: k = knit      p= purl       kfb= knit front&back       k2tog=knit 2 stitches together k2togbl= knit 2 stitches together through the back loop      sts=stitches      pm=place marker      sm=slip marker      yo=yarn over      yo2= yarn over twice, drop the second yo in the next round RS=right side      WS=wrong side       EBO=elastic bind-off

Special Stitches:

Small Wave (working flat: 12stitches and 4rows make the Small Wave)

Rows 1-2: Knit

Row 3: (k2tog)2times, (yo, k1)4times, (k2tog)2times (place markers to note 12sts repeats)

Row 4: Knit

Large Wave (working flat: 18stitches and 4rows make the Large Wave)

Rows 1-2: Knit

Row 3: (k2tog)3times, (yo2, k1)6times, (k2tog)3times (place markers to note 18sts repeats)

Row 4: Knit (if needed, dropping 2^nd yarn overs as you knit)

Picot: (Cast on, Bind Off, Cap Sease, p128 variation)

Cast on 2 stitches using the knit cast on as follows: Knit the first stitch, but leave the stitch on the left needle. Rotate the right needle clockwise, insert the tip of the left needle into the stitch from left to right, repeat once more to make the 2 stitches. EBO the 2sts. This creates the Picot.

Elastic Bind Off: (Cast on, Bind Off, Cap Sease, p123 variation)

Kl, * k1, insert left needle into the front of both stitches on right needle from left to right, and k2togbl; repeat from * This will elastic bind-off one stitch.

Directions: (Notes in italic.) (Please, notice in bold.)

Cast On: Hold both needle points together, long tail cast on 20sts, slide one needle point out of the work. (20sts loosely cast on) WS: K1, * kfb; repeat from * to last st, k1. (38sts)

(If working with two 100g coordinating yarns, Color A: rows 1,2, 5,6; Color B: rows 3,4, 7,8)

Eyelet Rows

RS Row 1: Kfb, yo, kfb, knit to the last 3sts, kfb2, yo, k1

(On the WS, you’ll be dropping the yo to create a little give to the wing edge.)

WS Row 2, (4, 6, 8, and all even numbered rows): K1, drop yo, knit to last 3sts, drop yo, k2

RS Row 3: Kfb, yo, kfb, k1, * (yo, k2tog); repeat from * to last 3sts, kfb2, yo, k1 (if last 4sts, yo, k2, kfb, yo, k1)

WS Row 4: K1, drop yo, knit to the last 3sts, drop yo, k2

RS Row 5: Kfb, yo, kfb, knit to the last 3sts, kfb2, yo, k1

WS Row 6: K1, drop yo, knit to the last 3sts, drop yo, k2

RS Row 7: Kfb, yo, kfb, *k3, kfb; repeat from * to last 3sts, kfb2, yo, k1

WS Row 8: K1, drop yo, knit to the last 3sts, drop yo, k2 (65sts)

Rows 9 – 14, 16: Repeat Rows 1-6 & 8. (91sts)

RS Row 15: Kfb, yo, kfb, *k6, kfb; repeat from * to last 3sts, kfb2, yo, k1

Rows 17 - 22, 24: Repeat Rows 1-6 & 8. (115sts)

RS Row 23: Kfb, yo, kfb, *k10, kfb; repeat from * to last 3sts, kfb2, yo, k1

Rows 25 - 30, 32: Repeat Rows 1-6 & 8. (137sts)

RS Row 31: Kfb, yo, Kfb, *k18, kfb; repeat from * to last 3sts, kfb2, yo, k1

Small Wave Rows

Set up Row 1: (with 137sts) Kfb, yo, kfb, pm, (knit 12, pm)11times to last 3sts, kfb2, yo, k1

RS Row 1: Kfb, yo, kfb, knit to last 3sts, kfb2, yo, k1

WS Row 2: K1, drop yo, knit to last 3sts, drop yo, k2

RS Row 3: Kfb, yo, kfb, knit to marker, sm, * (k2tog)2times, (yo, k1)4times, (k2tog)2times, sm; repeat from *, knit to last 3sts, kfb2, yo, k1

WS Row 4: K1, drop yo, knit to last 3sts, drop yo, k2

(As 6sts become available, work RS Row3 as follows: Kfb, yo, kfb, knit to those 6sts, place temporary marker, (yo, k1)2times, (k2tog)2times, sm, * (k2tog)2times, (yo, k1)4times, (k2tog)2times, sm; repeat from *, (k2tog)2times, (yo, k1)2times, place temporary marker, knit to last 3sts, kfb2, yo, k1)

(As 12sts become available, place markers to work additional small waves on each end of RS Row 3.)

Work Small Wave Rows 1-4, nine times.

Now, work the small wave a tenth time as follows: Rows 1, 2, 4 work per pattern.

RS Row 3(row 39): Kfb, yo, kfb, knit to marker, sm, * (k2tog)2times, (yo, k1)4times, yo, (k2tog)2times; repeat from *, sm, knit to last 3sts, kfb2, yo, k1 (now, 13sts between markers)

(stitch counts following rows 4: 145, 153, 161, 169, 177, 185, 193, 201, 209 sts, 234sts)

Large Eyelet Rows:

RS Row 1: Kfb, yo, kfb, knit to last 3sts, kfb2, yo, k1 (removing markers)

WS Row 2: K1, drop yo, knit to last 3sts, drop yo, k2

RS Row 3: Kfb, yo, kfb, k1, * yo2, k2tog; repeat from * to last 3sts, kfb2, yo, k1  
                                                                                          (if last 4sts, yo, k2, kfb, yo, k1)

WS Row 4: K1, drop yo, knit (dropping 2^nd yo) to last 3sts, drop yo, k2

RS Row 5: Kfb, yo, kfb, knit to the last 3sts, kfb2, yo, k1

WS Row 6: K1, drop yo, knit to the last 3sts, drop yo, k2

RS Row 7: Kfb, yo, kfb, * k18, kfb, pm; repeat from * to last 3sts, kfb2, yo, k1

WS Row 8: K1, drop yo, knit to the last 3sts, drop yo, k2

Work Large Eyelet Rows 1-8, four times. (stitch counts following rows 8: 262, 292, 323, 356sts)

Large Wave Rows: Set up Row 1: (with 356sts) Kfb, yo, kfb, knit 5, pm, * knit 18, pm;

repeat from * (19times) knit 4 to the last 3sts, kfb2, yo, k1

RS Row 1: Kfb, yo, kfb, knit to the last 3stst, kfb2, yo, k1

WS Rows 2: K1, drop yo, knit to the last 3sts, drop yo, k2

RS Row 3: Kfb, yo, kfb, knit to marker, sm, * (k2tog)3times, (yo2, k1)6times, (k2tog)3times, sm; repeat from *, knit to last 3sts, kfb2, yo, k1

WS Row 4: K1, drop yo, knit (dropping 2^nd yo) to the last 3sts, drop yo, k2

(As 9sts become available, work RS Row3 as follows: Kfb, yo, kfb, knit to those 9sts, place temporary marker, (yo, k1)3times, (k2tog)3times, sm, * (k2tog)3times, (yo2, k1)6times, (k2tog)3times, sm; repeat from *, (k2tog)3times, (yo, k1)3times, place temporary marker, knit to last 3sts, kfb2, yo, k1)

(As 18sts become available, place markers to work additional large waves on each end of RS Row 3.)

Work Large Wave Rows 1-4 eight to ten times

(stitch counts following rows 4: 364, 372, 380, 388, 396, 404, 412, 420, 428, 436sts)

Border:

Work Large Wave Rows 1-4 eight to ten times, or until nearing end of yarn, saving (12 to 18grams, 6times yarn needed for one row) to complete the Border & Picot Elastic Bind Off.

Leaving wave markers in place, work Large Wave Rows 1 and 2.

(Now, place hanging markers for Picot Elastic Bind Off. Starting at the first wave marker, place a hanging marker on the 3^rd, 6^th, 9^th, 12^th, 18^th stitches, thus 5sts used in the picot elastic bind-off. Then count your way back to the beginning of the row, and place hanging markers on every third stitch. At the start and end of the row, create one more picot in the first and last stitch.)

RS: Picot Elastic Bind Off: * Cast on 2 stitches using the knit cast, then EBO 5 stitches, place that stitch back on the left needle; repeat from * to end. (see Special Stitches)

Finishing: Weave in the tails. Block loosely.

Circle Creek Shawl: 158grams, 424sts

Finished size: 72”wingspan, 18” drop before blocking.

Blocking: 80”wingspan, 22”drop

Copyright 2018, Marilynn Blacketer. All rights reserved. 5-1-18

For pattern support please contact: marilynnblacketer@gmail.com

The Circle Creek Shawl pdf is available on Ravelry (login needed).

Circle Creek Shawl stitch counts following even numbered rows

Eyelet Rows:       2          4         6          8  

                          42        46        50        65

                          69        73        77        91

                          95        99       103      115

                         119      123     127      137sts

Small Wave Rows:   2            4                        Large Wave Rows: 2           4    

                                   141        145                                                      360        364

                                   149        153                                                      368        372

                                   157        161                                                      376        380

                                   165        169                                                      384        388

                                  173        177                                                      392        396

                                  181        185                                                      400        404

                                  189        193                                                      408        412

                                  197        201                                                      416        420

                                  205        209                                                      424        428

                                  213       234sts                                                  432        436sts

Large Eyelet Rows:  2           4          6          8  

                                238       242      246       262

                               266        270      274       292

                               296       300       304       323

                               327       331       335      356sts

Circle Creek Shawlette! 100grams 400-450yards

Photo: Circle Creek Shawl is knit in JazzHandzFusionFiber.etsy.com; 100 grams / 480yards Cotton Fingering Weight Color Changing Gradient Yarn – A Sunday Afternoon (blue - green)

Make Modifications to Circle Creek Shawl directions as follows:

Work Small Eyelet rows 1 to 32.

Work Small Wave Rows 1-4, seven times.

Now, work the small wave an eighth time as follows: Rows 1, 2, 4 work per pattern.

RS Row 3(row 31): Kfb, yo, kfb, knit to marker, sm, * (k2tog)2times, (yo, k1)4times, yo, (k2tog)2times; repeat from *, sm, knit to last 3sts, kfb2, yo, k1 (now, 13sts between markers)

(stitch counts following rows 4: 145, 153, 161, 169, 177, 185, 193, 216sts)

Work Large Eyelet Rows 1-8, three times. (stitch counts following rows 8: 243, 272, 302sts)

Large Wave Rows Set up Row 1: (with 302sts) Kfb, yo, kfb, knit 14, pm, * knit 18, pm;

repeat from * (15times) knit 13 to the last 3sts, kfb2, yo, k1

Work Large Wave Rows 1-4 five to six times, or until nearing end of yarn, saving (12 to 18grams, 6 times yarn needed for one row) to complete the Border & Picot Elastic Bind Off. (stitch counts following rows 4: 310, 318, 326, 334, 342, 350sts)

Work Border & Picot Elastic Bind Off.

Finishing: Weave in the tails. Block loosely.

Circle Creek Shawlette: 100grams, 346sts

Finished size: 60”wingspan, 15” drop before blocking.

Blocking: 64”wingspan, 15”drop

Circle Creek Shawlette Stitch counts following even numbered rows

Eyelet Rows:      2         4         6         8  

                          42       46       50       65

                          69       73       77       91

                          95       99      103     115

                        119      123     127     137sts

Small Wave Rows:    2           4                              Large Wave Rows:       2            4   

                                  141     145                                                              306      310

                                  149     153                                                              314      318

                                 157     161                                                               322      326

                                 165     169                                                               330      334

                                173     177                                                                338     342

                                181     185                                                                346     350sts

                               189     193

                               197      216sts

Large Eyelet Rows:   2           4           6           8   

                                  220      224       228       243

                                  247      251       255      272

                                 276      280       284      302sts

Copyright 2018, Marilynn Blacketer. All rights reserved. 5-1-18/6-20-18

For pattern support please contact: marilynnblacketer@gmail.com

The Circle Creek Shawl pdf is available on Ravelry (login needed).

Circle Creek Shawl (under) & Circle Creek Shawlette (top)

Here are photos of the process:

 

I gathered supplies for the Circle Creek Shawl.

I pulled out and snipped off 3g of black, and started the shawl with 3strands black/1green.  I worked the cast-on holding the two needle points together, then carefully removed one point to start knitting.

As I worked the eyelet rows, I had three sets of  needle caps available, bright green for eyelet and increase rows, purple for WS return rows, and soft green for knit rows.  I also had hanging markers available to note 50 and 100 stitches.

I completed the small waves.

I completed the large eyelet.

I worked the large wave, and needed to calculate available yarn for the border and picot elastic bind-off.

 

I placed pink hanging markers as I measured/divided the yarn into quarters.  I placed teal and orange hanging markers every third stitch to note picot placement.  I kept one hanging marker at the peak of each wave to note pin placement for blocking.

I finished the Circle Creek Shawl. 

 

I blocked to open up the lace.

Circle Creek Shawl modeled photo taken!

Copyright 2018, Marilynn Blacketer. All rights reserved. 5-1-18

For pattern support please contact: marilynnblacketer@gmail.com

The Circle Creek Shawl pdf is available on Ravelry (login needed).