Wednesday, April 15, 2015

Brioche Basic Beanie Let's Bark & Burp!

Why does beautiful Brioche have such amusing acronyms for the stitches? Well, it just does.   As you knit a stitch with its yarn over, that's called brioche knit, also known as a bark.   In the next round, you'll purl a stitch with its yarn over, and that's a brioche purl, also know as a burp.    Once you are familiar with working in Brioche, you can make increases, decreases, cables, and more.  As I tried working a couple hat patterns, I soon noticed I was not familiar enough with Brioche to do any of those, so I developed this pattern, to practice basic Brioche, and would like to share it with you.  

 Brioche Basic Beanie
Marilynn Blacketer '15
 Brioche for beginners! I thought we might benefit from a really basic Brioche beanie pattern with lots of Brioche, and a quick crown. The beanie is designed to be very tall, creating a deep fold-up brim to highlight the reversible brilliance of Brioche. Although the pattern is titled basic, this may be considered an intermediate level pattern because knowledge of stitch construction, and research about Brioche is helpful.

Finished size:
Adult: flat18”, stretches to 24”circumference; height 10”
Child: flat 16”, stretches to 22”circumference; height 8”
Infant: flat 14”, stretches to 20” circumference; height 6”

Gauge:
Worsted, #5 needles, loose Brioche stitch: 5 stitches = 1”

Materials: Yarn: superwash wool in 2 colors
MC = Main Color for the front of work and the knit stitches
CC = Contrasting Color for the back of work and purl stitches. (I used purple for purl!)
Adult: 200 yards /3.5oz; MC 100 yards and CC 100 yards
Child: 180 yards /3.25oz; MC 90 yards and CC 90 yards
Infant: 160 yards /3 oz; MC 80 yards and CC 80 yards
Photo: size Adult: MC: Worsted Merino Superwash Solids by Plymouth Yarn; 100% Merino wool;
218 yards/ 100grams; color #7 soft gray CC: Painted Sky by Knitting Fever; 100% Superwash Wool; 218 yards/ 3.52oz; color #205 Wine Violet (this project used 210 yards/104grams of yarn)
 Needles:
Size US #8, 16” circular needles (one size larger than yarn label recommendation for CO)
Size US #5, 16” circular needles, (two sizes smaller than yarn label recommendation for beanie)
and Size US#5 set of double pointed needles

Notions: Stitch markers, needle caps, tapestry needle
(I used a very small “end of round” marker, to avoid a tangle in the first BrK. When I set down my work, I used green needle caps if working a knit round, and purple caps for a purl round.)

Abbreviations: CO = cast on      CC = contrasting color      MC = main color       k = knit       p = purl k2tog = knit 2 stitches together      Rnd/s = round/s       sl = slip all stitches purlwise      st/s = stitch/es BrK = brioche knit       BrP = brioche purl      BrK2tog = brioche knit 2stitches together
sl,yof = slip one stitch, yarn over&forward      yf, slyo = yarn forward, slip one stitch&yarn over needle

Special Stitches:
BrK = brioche knit,“bark”= Knit the MCslipped stitch together with its CCyarn over.
BrP = brioche purl, “burp”= Purl the CCslipped stitch together with its MCyarn over.
BrK2tog = brioche knit 2 stitches together = MCslipped stitch and CCyarn over are considered one stitch, together with the CCpurl (you'll have 3 loops), knit those “2” stitches together.
yf, slyo = Bring the MCworking yarn under the needle to the front of the work, slip the CCstitch purlwise. Then bring the MCyarn over the needle(and over the CCslipped stitch)to the back, ready to work the BrK. This “yf,slyo” is considered one stitch.

sl, yof = slip one stitch, yarn over&forward = With the CCyarn already in front, slip the MCstitch purlwise, then bring the CCyarn over the needle(and over the MCslipped stitch), and under the needle to the front, ready to work the BrP. This “sl, yof” is considered one stitch.

Resources/ Research:
(I found “2- Color Brioche Knitting on Circular Needles”: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tgRgfCgQTPA; to be very helpful. If you knit continental, watch Brioche Stitch with Nancy Wynn: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8TjJelUaxog.)
KnittingBrioche, by Nancy Marchant is an excellent resource for inspiration and getting started.
KnittingWithout Tears, by Elizabeth Zimmerman, p95-97, A Watchcap is knit in the flat, but offers a quick look into Brioche.

Directions: Directions are written for size adult [child, infant are in brackets] (Notes are in italic)

With MC, size US#8needles, use the long-tail cast-on method, loosely cast on 72 [64, 56] stitches.

Place marker & join together by knitting first stitch being careful not to twist.

Continue with MC, size US#5needles, knit one round.


Set up round:
With size US#5needles, leave MC in back, introduce/pull CC to front, * sl, yof, p1; repeat to end.




(With CCyarn toward the front, slip MCstitch, bring CCyarn over needle and to the front, purl 1 stitch)








 

 Hat: (Work hat with size US#5needles)



Rnd 1: with MC, * BrK, yf, slyo; repeat to end
(MC BrK, MCyarn forward, slip CCstitch and bring MCyarn over top needle, ready to BrK again.)
(The very last stitch of the round: MCyarn forward, slip CCstitch, and the MC will just flop)

Rnd 2: with CC in front, * Sl, yof, BrP; repeat to end
(with CCyarn in front, slip MCstitch, bring CCyarn over needle and to the front, CC BrP)
(The very last stitch of the round: be sure to hold-up the floppy MCstitch to work the BrP. Then tuck the MCyarn under the needle tips, ready to slip the marker, and BrK the first stitch of the next round.)
 

Complete Hat rounds 1- 2 until hat reaches desired height,11” [9”, 7”] ending on rnd 2.

(Work hat with Brioche rounds 1 & 2 for 
11”[ 9”, 7”] ending on rnd 2.
For a shorter “cap”, work fewer rounds of Brioche before starting the crown. This pattern has a quick crown decrease, adding no height to the finished hat.)

Crown Decreases as follows: (Work stitches on double pointed needles when needed.)

Rnd 1: with MC, BrK 1, *BrK2tog; repeat from * to end, k1 (the last purl stitch)
(MC BrK just once, then repeat BrK2tog = brioche knit 2 stitches together = MCslipped stitch and CCyarn over are considered one stitch, together with the CCpurl (you'll have 3 loops), knit those “2” stitches together. Repeat to the end, but you'll find one remaining purl, knit that stitch.)

Rnd 2: Remove marker, with MC, *K2tog; repeat from * until 10sts remain.

Finishing: Cut 12” yarn and thread end through remaining 10 stitches.
Pull together, and tie off neatly for a very reversible hat. Weave in ends.


This pattern is available on MarilynnsGardenKnitDesign.blogspot.com
Pattern pdf is available at Ravelry.com (login needed)
Copyright 2015, Marilynn Blacketer. All rights reserved. 4/15/15
For pattern support please contact: marilynnblacketer@gmail.com


  

Let me share the back story:
Ravelry Notes: 3/28/15  Brioche challenge! The manager of the LYS Creative Beginnings has been working on an intriguing Brioche cowl. She also shared a magazine,  cast on, Nov'14-Jan'15, with the article "Best of Brioche".  Arriving home, I started a Brioche hat pattern search, and printed two. I really read details, and project notes. Many notes said, check You-Tube. I found “2- Color Brioche Knitting on Circular Needles” to be the most helpful. If you knit continental, watch Brioche Stitch with Nancy Wynn. I also read project notes about Brioche and Fisherman’s Rib (working a stitch below the stitch), and took another look at my Knitting Without Tears by Elizabeth Zimmermann. Years ago, I had knit the “Prime Rib” watchcap. It was worked in the flat with one color. It was challenging, but fun.


With that, I got started, twice, and this was the third (free pattern) attempt to work a Brioche hat. I really liked the Gina's Brioche Hat and Cowl pattern by Purl Soho. I liked the rolled edge and great explanation for introducing the second color. I was off to a great start.  Modifications/notes:
#8 needles, CO 64sts, (brim 16” circumference)
#6 needles to knit 5 rounds, and work the Brioche hat.

Color B = green; Color A = purple for purl!
I used a very small “end of round” marker, to avoid a tangle in the first BK2tog. When I set down my work, green needle caps if working a knit round, and purple caps if it was a purl round. I kept working a few more inches (5.5"), then work the crown decreases. 

The public library called. Knitting Brioche, by Nancy Marchant arrived through the inter-library search! I walked to the library!

3/29/15 Finished! I was pleased I had the Knitting Brioche because the author said to use  "hanging markers for placement of decreases." I did that for the decrease sequence. With other stash yarn, I also CO 64sts, worked just a few rounds of Brioche, then worked the decreases three attempts/times to be happy with the look and feel. Modifications: (64sts)Started at rnd 4: p3tog for the purl rounds. I didn’t get the raised ridges as in the photo, but p3tog kept the “working in established pattern” established! I was very pleased with the project, and selected yarn for another. 

Brioche Cable Cap

Now that we've built confidence with the Brioche Basic Beanie, let's try to Brioche with a cable! If finished neatly, this cap will be very reversible giving the recipient options, and highlighting the brilliance of Brioche. This may be considered an intermediate level pattern  because knowledge of stitch construction, and research about Brioche is helpful. 






Brioche Cable Cap    
Marilynn Blacketer '15

Finished size:
Adult: flat18”, stretches to 24”circumference; height 8.5”
Child: flat 16”, stretches to 22”circumference; height 7.5”
Infant: flat 14”, stretches to 20” circumference; height 6.5”

Gauge:
Worsted, #5 needles, Brioche (rib) stitch: 16 stitches = 4”

Materials: Yarn: superwash wool in 2 colors
MC = Main Color for the front of work and the knit stitches
CC = Contrasting Color for the back of work and purl stitches. (I used purple for purl!)
Adult: 200 yards /3.5oz; MC 100 yards and CC 100 yards
Child: 180 yards /3.25oz; MC 90 yards and CC 90 yards
Infant: 160 yards /3 oz; MC 80 yards and CC 80 yards
Photo: size Adult: MC: Worsted Merino Superwash Solids by Plymouth Yarn; 100% Merino wool;
218 yards/ 100grams; color #7 soft gray CC: color #15 plum

Needles:
Size US #8, 16” circular needles (one size larger than yarn label recommendation for CO)
Size US #5, 16” circular needles, (two sizes smaller than yarn label recommendation for beanie)
and Size US#5 set of double pointed needles

Notions: Hanging and round stitch markers, needle caps, cable needle, tapestry needle
(I used a very small “end of round” marker, to avoid a tangle in the first BrK.  I used hanging stitch markers to note where to work the cable. When I set down my work, I used green needle caps if working a knit round, and purple caps for a purl round.)

Abbreviations: CO=cast on       CC= contrasting color      MC= main color       k = knit      p= purl k2tog=knit 2 stitches together      Rnd/s=round/s       sl= slip all stitches purlwise       st/s=stitch/es
BrK= brioche knit      BrP= brioche purl       BrK2tog= brioche knit 2 stitches together
C8B= cable 8 back       cn=cable needle     sl,yof=slip one stitch, yarn over&forward 
yf, slyo= yarn forward, slip one stitch&yarn over needle

Special Stitches:
BrK = brioche knit,“bark”= Knit the MCslipped stitch together with its CCyarn over.
BrP = brioche purl, “burp”= Purl the CCslipped stitch together with its MCyarn over.
BrK2tog = brioche knit 2 stitches together = MCslipped stitch and CCyarn over are considered one stitch, together with the CCpurl (you'll have 3 loops), knit those “2” stitches together.
yf, slyo = Bring the MCworking yarn under the needle to the front of the work, slip the CCstitch purlwise. Then bring the MCyarn over the needle(and over the CCslipped stitch)to the back, ready to work the BrK. This “yf,slyo” is considered one stitch.
sl, yof = slip one stitch, yarn over&forward = With the CCyarn already in front, slip the MCstitch purlwise, then bring the CCyarn over the needle(and over the MCslipped stitch), and under the needle to the front, ready to work the BrP. This “sl, yof” is considered one stitch.
C8B= cable 8 back= slip 4 stitches to cable needle and hold in back, (BrK, yf, slyo)twice, then (BrK, yf, slyo) twice from the cable needle (“slip 4sts”= MCslipped stitch and CCyarn over are considered one stitch ,with the CCpurl, you'll have 6 loops on the cable needle, hold in back. Work twice, MC BrK, MCyarn forward, slip CCstitch and bring MCyarn over top needle, ready to work the stitches on the cable needle. Cable needle work twice, MC BrK, MCyarn forward, slip CCstitch and bring MCyarn over top needle, ready to work the hat in pattern.)

Resources/ Research
(I found “2- Color Brioche Knitting on Circular Needles”: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tgRgfCgQTPA; to be very helpful. If you knit continental, watch Brioche Stitch with Nancy Wynn: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8TjJelUaxog.)
KnittingBrioche, by Nancy Marchant is an excellent resource for inspiration and getting started.
KnittingWithout Tears, by Elizabeth Zimmerman, p95-97, A Watchcap is knit in the flat, but offers a quick look into Brioche.

Directions: Directions are written for size adult [child, infant are in brackets] (Notes are in italic)
With MC, size US#8needles, use the long-tail cast-on method, loosely cast on 72 [64, 56] stitches.
Place marker & join together by knitting first stitch being careful not to twist.
Continue with MC, size US#5needles, knit one round.

Set up round:
With size US#5needles, leave MC in back, introduce/pull CC to front, * sl, yof, p1; repeat to end.
(With CCyarn toward the front, slip MCstitch, bring CCyarn over needle and to the front, purl 1 stitch)

Cap: (Work cap with size US#5needles)
Rnd 1: with MC, * BrK, yf, slyo; repeat to end
(MC BrK, MCyarn forward, slip CCstitch and bring MCyarn over top needle, ready to BrK again.)
(The very last stitch of the round: MCyarn forward, slip CCstitch, and the MC will just flop)

Rnd 2: with CC in front, * Sl, yof, BrP; repeat to end
(with CCyarn in front, slip MCstitch, bring CCyarn over needle and to the front, CC BrP)
(The very last stitch of the round: be sure to hold-up the floppy MCstitch to work the BrP. Then tuck the MCyarn under the needle tips, ready to slip the marker, and BrK the first stitch of the next round.)

Complete Cap rounds 1- 2 until hat has a 10 MC stitch column on the front of the work.
(When counting rounds in pattern instructions, count only the knit stitches going up the knit column on the right side of the work.)

Rnd 21: with MC, (BrK, yf, slyo) 9 times, place hanging marker on next BrK, yf, slyo, then C8B, * BrK, yf, slyo; repeat from * to end
(Start the round with MC, [BrK, MC yarn forward, slip CCstitch, and bring MCyarn over top of needle] do that 9 times. Place a hanging marker on the next BrK, then yf, slyo ready to [C8B=see special stitches]“slip 4sts”= MCslipped stitch and CCyarn over are considered one stitch ,with the CCpurl you'll have 6 loops on the cable needle, hold in back. First work, MC BrK, MCyarn forward, slip CCstitch and bring MCyarn over top needle, BrK again, and MCyarn forward, slip CCstitch, and bring MCyarn over top needle , ready to work the stitches on the cable needle. On cable needle, MC BrK, MCyarn forward, slip CCstitch and bring MCyarn over top needle, BrK again, and MCyarn forward, slip CCstitch. And bring MCyarn over top needle, ready to work the remainder of the round in pattern as MC, BrK, MC yarn forward, slip CCstitch, and bring MCyarn over top of needle, ready to... )

Rnd 22: with CC in front, * Sl, yof, BrP; repeat to end
(Work carefully because those “C8B” stitches are all squished together.)

Work cap with Brioche rounds 1 & 2,  21 & 22 for 9”(8”, 7”) ending on a rnd 2.       
(For a taller hat, or fold-up brim work extra rounds of pattern before starting the crown decreases. This pattern has a quick crown decrease, adding no height to the finished hat.)

Crown Decreases as follows: (Work stitches on double pointed needles when needed.)
Rnd 1: with MC, BrK 1, *BrK2tog; repeat from * to end, k1 (the last purl stitch)
(MC BrK just once, then repeat BrK2tog = brioche knit 2 stitches together = MCslipped stitch and CCyarn over are considered one stitch, together with the CCpurl (you'll have 3 loops), knit those “2” stitches together. Repeat to the end, but you'll find one remaining purl, knit that stitch.)

Rnd 2: Remove marker, with MC, *K2tog; repeat from * until 10sts remain.


Finishing: Cut 12” yarn and thread end through remaining 10 stitches.
Pull together, and tie off neatly for a very reversible cap. Weave in ends.


This pattern is available on MarilynnsGardenKnitDesign.blogspot.com
Pattern dpf is available at Ravely.com (login needed)
Copyright 2015, Marilynn Blacketer. All rights reserved. 4/15/15
For pattern support please contact: marilynnblacketer@gmail.com 

Let me share a few photos of the process: 
superwash wool; needles one size larger and two sizes smaller than recommended  on the yarn label; hanging stitch markers and a small end of round marker, needle caps 
With larger needles, cast on Main Color, join, then knit onto smaller needles.
Work the set up round with the Contrast Color.
Work a few more rounds. With 10 knit stitches counted in the front column, place a hanging marker for the first cable.  (Note for the future/not this photo:  Work (BrK, yo, slyo) 9 times, then hang the marker on the 10th stitch.  You'll work the cable on the 11 - 18th stitches. This will give you a little distance from the starting tails, and end of round.)
Slip 4 stitches (6 loops) to the cable needle and hold in back of work. Work the next 4 stitches (6 loops) in pattern.
Now work the 4 stitches (6 loops) in pattern from the cable needle.
Work the cap to the desired height, then work decreases.
Use double pointed needles when needed.















This pattern is available on MarilynnsGardenKnitDesign.blogspot.com
Copyright 2015, Marilynn Blacketer. All rights reserved. 4/15/15
For pattern support please contact: marilynnblacketer@gmail.com