Dessert First Mitts

This was looking like a great pattern, and I was excited to get started on the mitts.
As I  looked at the yarn, and ate a piece of  pumpkin pie at 10:00AM, I asked myself, "What if I knit the mitts....?











But first, I'd  like to share the pumpkin pie recipe. 
Resources: PLU#3134 Pumpkin Pie; produce sticker
WELL FED, by Melissa Joulwan;  Velvety Butternut Squash, p 119

Roasting a pumpkin is no more difficult than roasting squash.  Remove the stem. Cut pumpkin in half, scoop out seeds & strings.  Place cut side down on parchment lined baking sheet. Sprinkle 2Tbs water on the parchment.  Bake 350F for 1 hour until tender.  Cool, and scoop out flesh.

 "pumpkin"  and a note from Farmer Ginger: 

Sure! It's pumpkin season!! That squash however is a speckled pup- not technically a pumpkin but a mini kobocha. Sweet and very good in pies! Enjoy and happy holidays!

Ginger from R-Evolution Gardens CSA

Prepare your favorite pie 9" shell.
Preheat oven to 375F.

Pumpkin pie filling: 
1 1/3 cup smooth pumpkin 
1 can sweetened condensed milk 
1 egg
1Tbs pumpkin pie spice (or 11/2 tsp cinnamon, 1/2 tsp nutmeg, 1/2 tsp ginger, 1/4 tsp clove)
Beat together, and pour into 9" pie shell.
Bake at 375F for 55-60 minutes.
Let cool, and enjoy!

Now, let's get back to Dessert First Mitts.
As I  looked at the yarn, and ate a piece of  pumpkin pie at 10:00AM, I asked myself, "What if I knit the mitts with all this green & blue, and never get to the pretty magenta?  How can I, 'Knit, Relax, Smile. Repeat!' as suggested on the Universal Yarn label?"

As I finished the piece of piece of pie, I decided to solve that problem. I unwound, and wound the yarn into a ball. I found/wound 33g of green & blue. I continued unwinding on through the magenta, and into the red.  I divided the red in half, and my lucky day, 50g of yarn in that ball.

Then I wound the other ball pulling from the inside, and I started both mitts with a red/magenta cuff!  Dessert first!  Now, I could "Knit, Relax, Smile. Repeat!" as it suggests on the label.

 Dessert First Mitts      Marilynn Blacketer 2014

These Dessert First Mitts are fraternal twins. If finished neatly, interestingly reversible!

The mitts are worked from wrist to fingers in worsted weight yarn. Mitt sizes are determined by the needle size. The Fancy Cable is fun to work, and the mitts can be knit in a weekend, or two, making them the perfect gift or accessory. This may be considered an intermediate level pattern because knowledge of cables, and stitch construction is helpful.

Finished sizes:

Small: Flat 5”, stretches (at cable) to 8”circumference, height 9”

Medium: Flat 5.5”, stretches (at cable) to 10”circumference, height 9”

Large: Flat 6”, stretches (at cable) to 12”circumference, height 9”

Gauge: (size #6 needle) 8 stitches = 1” flat 2x2 ribbing; (size #7 needles) 7sts = 1” flat 2x2 ribbing;

(size #8 needles) 6 stitches =1” flat 2x2 ribbing. Adjust needle size to match gauge.

Materials:

Yarn: cotton or wool blend in worsted weight; 200 yards/3.5 oz;

Photo: Dessert First Mitts (size small) are knit in Universal Yarn Classic Shades;

70%acrylic / 30%wool; color 733 Jubilant

Needles:

Size small: Two sizeUS#6, 16”or 24” circular needles, set sizeUS#6 double pointed needle

Size medium: Two sizeUS#7, 16”or 24” circular needles, set sizeUS#7 double pointed needle

Size large: Two sizeUS#8, 16”or 24” circular needles, set sizeUS#8 double pointed needle

(I prefer to knit both mitts at the same time on two circular needles.

KNITTING circles around SOCKS by Antje Gillingham is an excellent resource for getting started.)

Notions: Stitch markers,  tapestry needle,  cable needle,  2 yards different color yarn,  (smaller spare) set double pointed needles,  crochet hook

Abbreviations: CO = cast on      BO = bind off       K = knit       p = purl

MC = main color      cn = cable needle      Rnd = round      sts = stitches

c8B = cable 8 Back      c8F = cable 8 Front

Fancy Cable (these 20 stitches and 10 rounds make the fancy cable)

Rnds 1-9: * Knit 2, purl 2; repeat from * to end

Rnd 10: K1, c8B, c8F, k1, p2

Special Stitches:

c8B = cable 8 back = slip 4sts to cn and hold in back, work 4sts on left needle as presented 
(k1, p2, k1), work sts from cn as presented (k1, p2, k1)

c8F = cable 8 front = slip 4sts to cn and hold in front, work 4sts on left needle as presented 
(k1, p2, k1), work sts from cn as presented (k1, p2, k1)

Key:(Rnd 10) knit    , cable8B >//<, cable8F >\\<, k    , purl - , p -

Directions: Make two mitts.

If working with one (200 yard)skein of yarn, divide into two (100yard/50g)balls, winding so the favorite(dessert)colored yarn is toward the beginning to be worked into the cuff. If working with 2 skeins of yarn, pull from the inside, or outside, enjoying the favorite(dessert) colored yarn toward the beginning to be worked into the cuff.

Use the long-tail cast-on method, with two SizeUS #6,(#7,#8), 16” circular needles, 
cast on 48 stitches.

Place marker & join together by knitting first stitch being careful not to twist. (24sts per needle)

Rnds 1- 9: *Knit 2, purl 2; repeat from * to end

Rnds 10: (back of hand) K2, p2, k1, c8B, c8F, k1, p2, then (palm) (k2, p2) 6 times

(Optional Rnds 10, 20, 30: * K2, p2, k1, c8B, c8F, k1, p2; repeat from * to end)

Work mitts with Fancy Cable at least 6” from CO completing rnd 4.

Thumb opening:

Oops, two right thumbs. Yes, I fixed that!

The mitts are (fraternal) identical, and you've been looking at the back of the hand. This round will determine the right and left thumb placement.

Right Thumb Opening Rnd 5: (K2, p2)6times(back of hand), then k2, drop MC yarn, with a strand of different colored yarn, p2, k2. Slip the four stitches back to the left needle. Drop colored strand, pick up MC, p2, k2 across 4 stitches once more, and continue p2, (k2, p2)4times (palm).

The thumb cuff will be put in later.

Left Thumb Opening Rnd 5: (K2, p2)6times(back of hand), then (palm)(k2, p2)5times, drop MC yarn, with a strand of different colored yarn, k2, p2. Slip the four stitches back to the left needle. Drop colored strand, pick up MC, k2, p2 across 4 stitches once more. The thumb cuff will be put in later.

Rnds 6 - 9: * K2, p2; repeat from * to end

Rnd 10: K2, p2, k1, c8B, c8F, k1, p2, then (k2, p2) 6 times

Continue to work mitt an additional 3” with Fancy Cable on the back of hand, ending work on rnd 9.

Bind off loosely in pattern.

Finishing:

Thumb Cuff: Carefully slide the 4sts below, and 4sts above the colored yarn to 2 (smaller spare) double pointed needles. Carefully remove the colored yarn. 

Attach MC yarn, working with sizeUS#6,(#7,#8), double pointed needles, picking up 2 stitches as knit or purl at the beginning of each needle, and knit 2, purl 2 as the stitches present themselves, work one round. (You'll have the rib pattern established, and 6 sts on the two needles. This will help avoid “holes” on the sides, and offer comfort for the thumb.)

Now work the thumb cuff onto 3 double pointed needles (k2, p2 per needle).

Rnds 1-10:* K2, p2; repeat from * to end

Bind off loosely in pattern. Weave in tail very neatly for a reversible mitt.

Make the second mitt.

This pattern is available on  marilynnsgardenknitdesign.blogspot.com.

Dessert First Mitts pattern pdf is available on Ravelry (login needed)

Copyright 2014, Marilynn Blacketer. All rights reserved. 11-23-14

For pattern support please contact: marilynnblacketer@gmail.com

Sock Yarn Kool-Aid Dyeing

10/16/14      This summer, I enjoyed working on tie-dyed projects outside, in the NH sunshine with my daughter & grandkids.  With that experience, knew I had the confidence to try the Kool-Aid dyeing process on bare yarn, in my kitchen, here in Oregon.  I gathered the supplies, and got started.

The project took a couple hours, clean up was nothing more than washing a few dishes, and I had a good time.

Resource:SOCKS, SOCKS, SOCKS; Edited by Elaine Rowley, (1998) 2007, p72, Dye-Your-Own Socks by Traci Bunkers.    I've had the book since 2008, and finally decided to give this project go!

I also ran a Google search: "Kool-Aid yarn dyeing", and found an
Additional Resource:  Dyed in Wool , by Kristi Porter, Knitty.com

Supplies: bare yarn, microwave-safe dish, powdered drink mixes, mixing containers, tools to apply the dye, water, vinegar, rubber gloves.
Additional Supplies: string, measuring cups, bowl, cookie sheet w/parchment, food color, microwave, cooling rack, sink, tablecloth, apron, washing machine, towel.

I had the directions available, and gathered the recommended supplies. I also had the "crafting" tablecloth at hand. 

As I unwrapped the hank of bare yarn, I knew I wanted to secure the rounds in a couple, really 4 more places.  I used cotton kitchen string to tie the additional bands around the yarn.

Once the yarn was secured, I placed it in a bowl with 2 cups warm water and 1/2 cup vinegar.   While the yarn was soaking, I prepared the drink mixes.

The yarn soaked, and the drink mixes were prepared.  I mixed two packets (one flavor) in 1/2 cup warm water.

I carefully squeezed the excess water from the soaked yarn, and placed the yarn on a cookie sheet w/parchment.  I used a very old cookie sheet, and lined it with parchment to have a white surface. Using the Chef's Condiment Dispenser, I first applied the lemon yellow, and was disappointed because the color/liquid didn't go very far.  I then applied the cherry red with better results, but I didn't have the coverage I wanted.  I was looking at the colorful crafting tablecloth and said, "Why not try food color just like the grandkids used for Easter Eggs?"

The "egg dye" recipes are on the back.  I selected yellow and dusty rose.

Using the Chef's Condiment Dispenser, I applies the "egg" dye. I was much happier with the coverage.

I squeezed out some excess water, I placed the dyed yarn into the microwave-safe dish.

I placed the yarn and dish in the microwave.  The directions said to "cook" for 2 minutes. Let it rest for 2 minutes. Flip the yarn over, and "cook" for 2 more minutes.  If the color wasn't set, let it rest, and "cook" it again.  I "cooked" it again, why not?  Then I set the dish on a cooling rack, and let everything cool. 

I rinsed the yarn in the sink, no excess color rinsed out.

The author suggested putting the yarn into the washer, and running the spin cycle.  I did that.   I have a top loading washer because I like to craft!

I placed the the yarn on a towel to dry.  It was outside for the photo, I brought it inside to dry.

It will be a few days before I can wind the yarn into balls, and start the socks.  I'll work on another project until then.

10/19/14

I moved the yarn inside, and hung it on the back of a door to swing over a heater vent.

I finished another project, and set up for the Socks-Take 5!

It was time to wind the yarn into two balls.  I do not have a swift, and the back of the chair works well.

I wound the yarn around my fingers, then continue to wind the ball with a finger inserted just to keep it winding loosely.

I have a (kitchen) scale that I use only for yarn.  One ball was ready.

Both balls were wound, and I'd cast on for the two socks. 

This was a great project!  I really enjoyed taking the time to dye my own yarn!
If you're still with me, please follow the post for Socks-Take 5 Kool-Aid as I knit the socks.

Socks-Take 5 Kool-Aid

The Socks-Take 5 work well in a superwash wool blend, and this yarn dyed wonderfully! 

                                              Socks-Take 5 Kool-Aid

The Kool-Aid dyed yarn was dry!

Marilynn Blacketer '14

The Socks-Take 5 work well in a superwash wool blend. The Take 5 ribbing is fun work, and the socks can be knit in just a few days making them the perfect gift or accessory.

This may be considered an intermediate level pattern because knowledge of sock (and stitch) construction is helpful.

Finished size: leg height about 10”,  
leg width about 7” flat, stretch 10”circumference

Gauge: 8 stitches = 1”  Adjust needle size, and row count to match gauge.

Materials:  
Yarn: MC superwash wool blend in fingering weight, 

CC cotton/elastic blend,  
or CC superwash wool blend in fingering weight, 
and 2 yards of waste yarn in a different color

Photo: KnitPicks Stroll, Bare; 75%Superwash Merino Wool/ 25%Nylon;

462yards/100g; Hand dyed with Kool-Aid colors:Black Cherry, Lemonade  

                      (& yellow food color)

KnitPicks Dancing; 41%Cotton, 39%Wool, 13%Nylon, 7%Elastic; color23587

Needles: Size US#2, 16”and 24” circular needles or size US#2 set double pointed needles

tapestry needle, stitch markers

 Resources: Socks Soar on Two Circular Needles   by Cat Bordhi 

KNITTING circles around SOCKS  by Antje Gillingham

Learn to Knit SOCKS   by Edie Eckman

Abbreviations: CO=cast on   k = knit   p= purl   k2tog=knit 2 stitches together      Rnd/s=round/s      sts=stitches       MC = main color       CC= contrasting color

Special Stitches: Take 5 Ribbing 

Rnds 1-4: with MC,  * Knit 3, purl 2; repeat from * to end

Rnd 5: with CC, * Knit 3, purl 2; repeat from * to end 

Directions: The directions are written for adult size (small, medium, large) in parentheses, and working with 2 circular needles. (notes are in italic) Make 2 socks.  

(Detailed tutorial available at Socks-Take 5)

Use the long-tail cast-on method, with size US#2 needles, with MC, cast on (75, 90, 105) stitches.

Place marker & join together by knitting first stitch being careful not to twist,

with MC, * K1, k2tog; repeat from * to end. (50, 60, 70) sts

Modification: Size US#3 needles

Sock Leg:

Rnds 1-4: with MC, * K3, p2; repeat from * to end

Rnd 5: with CC, * K3, p2; repeat from * to end

Repeat rnds 1-5, working leg to the desired length, ending on rnd 4, set up for heel and foot.

(7”, 8”, 9”) from CO

Instep and Heel set up:

(If working with cotton/elastic yarn, cut CC.)

With MC/CC as established, [K3,p2](4,5,6)times, k3; instep stitches. (23, 28, 33)sts instep

Drop MC/CC yarn, and with a strand of different colored yarn knit across heel (27, 32, 37)stitches.

Drop colored strand, pick up MC/CC, and knit across heel (27, 32, 37) stitches once more. After this work instep as established, and knit sole; the heel will be put in later.

Instep and Sole:

Work instep as established, and knit sole until sock measures from heel (colored yarn) marker:

(4.5”, 5.5”,6.5”) for desired length.

Toe:

Rnd 1 & odd rounds: with MC, * K1, k2tog, knit to the last 3 stitches on needle, k2tog, k1;(instep)

repeat from * to end(sole) (4sts decreased)

Rnd 2 & even rounds: with MC, knit

Continue until (13, 14, 13)sts remain for instep, and (17, 18, 17)sts remain for sole.

Work 2 more rounds: K(13, 14, 13)(instep), k1, k2tog, knit to last 3 stitches on needle, k2tog, k1(sole) With (26, 28, 26) stitches remaining, cut 18” yarn, and work Kitchener Stitch to finish the toe.

I had the Learn to Knit Socks available for the Kitchener Stitch!

Heel:

Carefully slide the (27, 32, 37)sts below(sole), and (27, 32, 37)sts above the colored yarn(leg) to needles. Carefully remove the colored yarn.

Attach MC yarn, knit a round, and pick up one stitch at the beginning and end of the needles. (You'll have (29, 34, 39)sts on each needle, and this will help avoid “holes” on the heel sides.)

Now work the heel the same as the toe.

Rnd 1 & odd rounds: with MC, * K1, k2tog, knit to the last 3 stitches on needle, k2tog, k1;

repeat from * to end (4 sts decreased)

Rnd 2 & even rounds: with MC, knit

Continue until (26, 28, 26) stitches remain.

Cut 18”yarn, and work Kitchener Stitch to finish the heel.

Finishing: Weave in tails. Make second sock. 

 

This pattern is available on  marilynnsgardenknitdesign.blogspot.com.

Socks- Take 5 pattern pdf is available on Ravelry (login needed)

Copyright 2014, Marilynn Blacketer. All rights reserved. 10-24-14

For pattern support please contact: marilynnblacketer@gmail.com

Rhombi Hats

UPDATE: 9/6/14

While designing hats with knit & purl stitches for the eBook called Precocious Purls, I found another interesting pattern in 400 knitting stitches, Tiles2, p42.  The pattern creates a diamond, but remembering my many years as a second grade educator, "Your teacher, and the math program, will call that a rhombus".  I have modified the pattern, and because the hats will have a few diamonds in a row, they'll be called the Rhombi Hat, and Rhombi Moss Hat.    

As I did a Ravelry (login needed) search for "diamond, hat, knit", I  found 250 matches.  Some of the matches were because knitters used a Diamond Yarn pattern leaflet.  There were/are some beautiful patterns, but none of the patterns available matched the Rhombi Hats I am presenting.  The  Ravelry search for  "rhombus, hat, knit" generated only 4 matches, and I'll go with that.

Rhombi Hats

Marilynn Blacketer '14

The Rhombi Hats work well in a cotton or wool blend.

Yes, the knit and purl stitches create a diamond, but your teacher will call it a rhombus. The Rhombus or Rhombus Moss charts are a great introduction to chart reading, and gives the knitter something interesting to do. If finished neatly, the recipient can wear it inside-out for a reversible look.

Each hat takes just a few hours to knit, and makes a perfect gift or accessory for either gender.

Finished sizes:

Adult: flat 14”, stretches to 22”circumference, height 9”

Child: flat 12”, stretches to 20”circumference, height 8”

Infant: flat 10”, stretches to 18”circumference, height 7”

Gauge: 5 stitches = 1” Adjust needle size to match gauge.

Materials:

Yarn: cotton or wool blend in worsted weight

Adult: 150 yards/ 2.5oz; Child: 125 yards /2 oz Infant: 90yards / 1.5 oz

Photo: Rhombi Hat is knit in Plymouth Encore worsted; 75%acrylic/ 25%wool; color 560

Rhombi Moss Hat is knit in Plymouth Fantasy Naturale worsted; 100%cotton; color 4548

Needles: Size US#8, 16” circular needles, set size US#8 double pointed needles

Notions: Stitch markers, tapestry needle

Abbreviations: CO = cast on      K = knit      k2tog = knit 2 stitches together

p = purl       p2tog= purl 2 stitches together       Rnd/s = round/s      sts = stitches

(These 12stitches and 15rows create the rhombus pattern)

Key: knit     , purl -

 Special Stitches: Rhombus

Rnd 1: k5, p1, k6

Rnd 2: k4, p1, k1, p1, k5

Rnd 3: k3, p1, k1, p1, k1, p1, k4

Rnd 4: k2, p1, k1, p3, k1, p1, k3

Rnd 5: k1, p1, k1, p5, k1, p1, k2

Rnd 6: p1, k1, p7, k1, p1, k1

Rnd 7: k1, p9, k1, p1

Rnd 8: p11, k1

Rnd 9: k1, p9, k1, p1

Rnd 10: p1, k1, p7, k1, p1, k1

Rnd 11: k1, p1, k1, p5, k1, p1, k2

Rnd 12: k2, p1, k1, p3, k1, p1, k3

Rnd 13: k3, p1, k1, p1, k1, p1, k4

Rnd 14: k4, p1, k1, p1, k5

Rnd 15: k5, p1, k6

As you work the chart, start in the bottom right corner, and work right to left. By reading and working in this manner, your stitches will follow the direction of the chart. On the hat, place a marker at the end of each 12 stitch repeat, and start counting again at "one."  It's helpful to keep pencil tallies on a post-a-note to mark the rounds, and move the post-a-note up, as you work your way up the chart.

(These 12stitches and 15rows create the rhombus moss pattern)

Key: knit     , purl -

Special Stitches: Rhombus Moss

Rnd 1: k5, p1, k6

Rnd 2: k4, p1, k1, p1, k5

Rnd 3: k3, p1, (k1, p1)2times, , k4

Rnd 4: k2, p1, (k1, p1)3times, k3

Rnd 5: (k1, p1)5times, k2

Rnd 6: (p1, k1)6times

Rnd 7: (k1, p1)6times

Rnd 8: (p1, k1)6times

Rnd 9: (k1, p1) 6times

Rnd 10: (p1, k1)6times

Rnd 11: (k1, p1)5times, k2

Rnd 12: k2, p1, (k1, p1)3times, k3

Rnd 13: k3, p1, (k1, p1)2times, k4

Rnd 14: k4, p1, k1, p1, k5

Rnd 15: k5, p1, k6

Directions: Directions are written for adult size. [child and infant directions are in brackets]

Use the long-tail cast-on method, with size #8, 16” circular needles. Cast on 84 [72, 60] stitches.

Place marker & join together by knitting first stitch being careful not to twist.

Brim:

Rounds 1-12[10,10]: * Knit 1, purl 1; repeat from * to end

Hat: Work the hat around in rhombus or rhombus moss pattern.

Rhombus pattern:

Rnd 1: * K5, p1, k6, place marker; repeat from * to end

Rnd 2: * K4, p1, k1, p1, k5; repeat from * to end

Rnd 3: * K3, p1, k1, p1, k1, p1, k4; repeat from * to end

Rnd 4: * K2, p1, k1, p3, k1, p1, k3; repeat from * to end

Rnd 5: * K1, p1, k1, p5, k1, p1, k2; repeat from * to end

Rnd 6: * P1, k1, p7, k1, p1, k1; repeat from * to end

Rnd 7: * K1, p9, k1, p1; repeat from * to end

Rnd 8: * P11, k1; repeat from * to end

Rnd 9: * K1, p9, k1, p1; repeat from * to end

Rnd 10: * P1, k1, p7, k1, p1, k1; repeat from * to end

Rnd 11: * K1, p1, k1, p5, k1, p1, k2; repeat from * to end

Rnd 12: * K2, p1, k1, p3, k1, p1, k3; repeat from * to end

Rnd 13: * K3, p1, k1, p1, k1, p1, k4; repeat from * to end

Rnd 14: * K4, p1, k1, p1, k5; repeat from * to end

Rnd 15: * K5, p1, k6; repeat from * to end

     

Optional Rhombus Moss pattern:   

Rnd 1: * k5, p1, k6, place marker; repeat from * to end
Rnd 2: * k4, p1, k1, p1, k5; repeat from * to end
Rnd 3: * k3, p1, (k1, p1)2times, k4; repeat from * to end

Rnd 4: * k2, p1, (k1, p1)3times, k3; repeat from * to end

Rnd 5: * (k1, p1)5times, k2; repeat from * to end
Rnd 6: * (p1, k1)6times; repeat from * to end
Rnd 7: * (k1, p1)6times; repeat from * to end 
Rnd 8: * (p1, k1)6times; repeat from * to end 
Rnd 9: * (k1, p1) 6times; repeat from * to end
Rnd 10: * (p1, k1)6times; repeat from * to end

Rnd 11: * (k1, p1)5times, k2; repeat from * to end

Rnd 12: * k2, p1, (k1, p1)3times, k3; repeat from * to end

Rnd 13: * k3, p1, (k1, p1)2times, k4; repeat from * to end

Rnd 14: * k4, p1, k1, p1, k5; repeat from * to end

Rnd 15: * k5, p1, k6; repeat from * to end

Work the hat in pattern for 8” [7”, 6”] from CO ending on round 15 or round 8.

For a taller hat, or fold-up brim work extra rounds of the pattern before starting the crown decreases.

Crown decreases: Change to double pointed needles when needed.

Crown decreases ending hat at round 15:

Rnd 1: * K4, k2tog; repeat from * to end

Rnds 2, 4, 6, 8: Knit

Rnd 3: * K3, k2tog; repeat from * to end

Rnd 5: * K2, k2tog; repeat from * to end

Rnd 7: * K1, k2tog; repeat from * to end

Rnd 9: * K2tog; repeat from * to end.

Rnd 10: * K2tog; repeat from * to end.

          Crown decreases ending hat at round 8:

          Rnd 1: * P4, p2tog; repeat from * to end

          Rnds  2, 4, 6, 8: Purl

          Rnd 3: * P3, p2tog; repeat from * to end

          Rnd 5: * P2, p2tog; repeat from * to end

          Rnd 7: * P1, p2tog; repeat from * to end

          Rnd 9: * P2tog; repeat from * to end

          Rnd 10: * P2tog; repeat from * to end

Finishing: Cut 12” yarn and thread end through remaining 7 [6, 5] stitches.

Pull together, and tie off neatly for a reversible hat.

This pattern is available on MarilynnsGardenKnitDesign.blogspot.com

This pattern pdf available on Ravelry.com. (login needed)
eBook Precocious Purls is available on Ravelry.com (login needed)

Copyright 2014, Marilynn Blacketer. All rights reserved. 9/6/14

For pattern support please contact: marilynnblacketer@gmail.com