Teeny Tiny Socks-Take 5

I know it's still summer, but we're pretty excited about the arrival of a new grand-daughter in October, and this Grams thinks that special occasion calls for a pair of Teeny Socks! Why not include the Tiny Socks, too?     

 Marilynn Blacketer '16

The Teeny Tiny Socks-Take 5 work well in a superwash wool blend. The Take 5 ribbing is fun to work, and the socks can be knit in just a few days making them the perfect gift or accessory.  This may be considered an intermediate level pattern because knowledge of sock (and stitch) construction is helpful.

Finished size:

Newborn: leg height cuff to heel 3”, foot length heel to toe 3”, foot circumference 3” flat, stretch 5”

Infant: leg height cuff to heel 3.5”, foot length heel to toe 3.5”, foot circumference 4” flat, stretch 6”

Gauge:

Newborn: US#1(2.25mm) needles: 9 stitches = 1”

Infant: US#2.5(3mm) needles: 8 stitches = 1”

Adjust needle size, and row count to match gauge.

Materials:

Yarn: MC superwash wool blend in fingering weight, CC cotton/elastic blend,

or CC superwash wool blend in fingering weight, and 2 yards of waste yarn in a different color

Photo: KnitPicks Stroll, Spring Blooms Tonal; 75%Superwash Merino Wool/ 25%Nylon;

CascadeYarns, Fixation; 98.3%Cotton/ 1.7%Elastic;

Pair of socks used 15 grams of yarn.

Needles: Size US#1(2.25mm), 16”and 24” circular needles, or size US#1 set double pointed needles

Size US#2.5(3mm), 16”and 24” circular needles, or size US#2.5 set double pointed needles

Notions:           tapestry needle, stitch markers, spare US#1 double pointed needles

Resources: Socks Soar on Two Circular Needles  , by Cat Bordhi

KNITTING circles around SOCKS  , by Antje Gillingham

Learn to Knit SOCKS  , by Edie Eckman

Abbreviations: CO=cast on       k = knit       p= purl      k2tog=knit 2 stitches together      Rnd/s=round/s      sts=stitches      yo = yarn over      MC = main color      CC= contrasting color     

Special Stitches: Take 5 Ribbing

Rnds 1-4: with MC,  * Knit 3, purl 2; repeat from * to end

Rnd 5: with CC,  * Knit 3, purl 2; repeat from * to end

Directions: The directions are written for size (newborn, infant in parentheses) and working with 2 circular needles. (notes are in italic) Make 2 socks.

Ruffle: Use the long-tail cast-on method, with spare US#1 needle and size US(#1, #2.5) needles held together, with MC, cast on 60 stitches. Carefully slide off the spare needle.

Place marker & join together by knitting first stitch being careful not to twist.

Rnds 1-4: with MC, Knit

Rnd 5: with MC, K2tog to end.       30sts

Eyelet Ruffle: Use the long-tail cast-on method, with spare US#1 needle and size US(#1, #2.5) needles held together, with MC, cast on 61 stitches.  (Save 9” tail to sew ruffle together as you finish the sock. 

Row 1: with MC, Knit  
(You'll be working back and forth.)

Row 2: with MC, K1, * yo, k2tog; repeat from * to end

Row 3: with MC, Knit

Row 4: with MC, Knit to last two stitches, k2tog      60sts

Rnd 5: Place marker & join together by k2tog, being careful not to twist, continue with MC, k2tog to end.       30sts

Not in photo:

Plain cuff: Use the long-tail cast-on method, with spare US#1 needle and size US(#1, #2.5) needles held together, with MC, cast on 45 stitches. Carefully slide off the spare needle.

Place marker & join together by knitting first stitch being careful not to twist.

With MC, * K1, k2tog; repeat from * to end.                                        30sts

Sock Leg: (15sts per two needles)

Rnds 1-4: with MC, * K3, p2; repeat from * to end

Rnd 5: with CC, * K3, p2; repeat from * to end

Repeat rnds 1-5, working leg to the desired length, ending on rnd 5, set up for heel and foot. 

                                                                                    (2”, 2.5”) from CO for desired height

Instep and Heel set up:

Rnds 1, 2: with MC as established, [K3,p2](2)times, k3 (13sts instep, slip last 2sts to back needle), knit 17 (heel)

Rnd 3: with MC as established, [K3,p2](2)times, k3; instep stitches.

Drop MC yarn, and with a strand of different colored yarn knit across heel 17stitches.

(If working with US#1needle, purl back with colored yarn, just to provide more space later)

Drop colored strand, pick up MC, and knit across heel 17 stitches once more.

After this, work instep as established, and knit sole; the heel will be put in later.

Instep and Sole:

Work instep as established, and knit sole until sock measures from heel (colored yarn) marker, ending on rnd 5,  (1.5", 1.75") for desired length.  Cut CC.

Toe:

Rnd 1 & odd rounds: with MC, * K1, k2tog, knit to the last 3 stitches on needle, k2tog, k1;(instep)

repeat from * to end(sole)                                                 (4sts decreased)

Rnd 2 & even rounds: with MC, knit

Continue to work Rnds 1&2 until 7sts remain for instep, and 11sts remain for sole.

Work 2 more rounds: K7(instep), k1, k2tog, knit to last 3 stitches on needle, k2tog, k1(sole)

With 14 stitches remaining (7sts per needle), cut 18” yarn, and work Kitchener Stitch to finish the toe.

Heel:

Carefully slide the 17sts below(sole), and 17sts above the colored yarn(leg) to needles. Carefully remove the colored yarn.

Attach MC yarn, knit a round, and pick up one stitch at the beginning and end of the needles. (You'll have 19sts on each needle, and this will help avoid “holes” on the heel sides.)

Now work the heel the same as the toe.

Rnd 1 & odd rounds: with MC, * K1, k2tog, knit to the last 3 stitches on needle, k2tog, k1;

repeat from * to end (4 sts decreased)

Rnd 2 & even rounds: with MC, knit

Continue to work Rnds 1&2 until 14 (7sts per needle) stitches remain.

Cut 18”yarn, and work Kitchener Stitch to finish the heel.

Finishing: Weave in tails. Make second sock.

This pattern is available on marilynnsgardenknitdesign.blogspot.com.
Jr. Socks-Take 5 pattern pdf available on Ravelry.com (login needed)

Copyright 2016, Marilynn Blacketer. All rights reserved. 8-19-16

For pattern support please contact: marilynnblacketer@gmail.com

Here are photos of the process:

Gather supplies.  These socks were knit with stash yarn.

Cast on 60st holding two needles together.

Carefully remove the spare needle.

Working the eyelet cuff, it is now time to join, then k2tog around the cuff, reducing to 30sts.

Work rnds 1-4, then add the CC at rnd 5.

Work leg (2", 2.5"), and set up for the afterthought heel.  I decided to use a blue yarn rather than pink to make it easier to remove the "colored" yarn to work the heel.

One sock, I knitted the "colored" yarn.

This sock, I knitted across, and purled back with the "colored" yarn. I recommend this when working with size US#1 needles. 

Work (1.5", 1.75") past the "colored" yarn, ending the work on rnd5.  Cut the CC yarn, and start the toe decreases.

At 7sts per needle, cut 18" MC yarn,

and work Kitchener Stitch to finish the toe.  My mantra: (front needle) knit off, purl, (back needle) purl off, knit

This sock was inside out.  I was weaving in the tails, and I whip-stitched about 4 sts to sew the eyelet ruffle together.

Using a US#1 needle, on the sock knitted with  size US#2.5, I had no trouble picking up the stitches on both sides of the "colored" yarn.  During the first round of knitting, I used the US#2.5 needles to set the work to gauge.

I had a problem using a US#1 needle to pick up the stitches, on the sock knitted with size US#1 needle. I solved the problem of  not having space, by sliding the first set of picked up stitches to the cable of  the US#1 circular needle. 

Having two rows of "colorful" yarn made it easier to pick up the stitches for the afterthought heel.

 I worked the decreases on the heels as if they were toes.  There were 19sts per needle. The front and back needles started and came out even.  Ready for more Kitchener Stitch.

I tried this, and that, and still got little "holes" at the corners of the heels.  I solved that problem by weaving the tails of the starting and closing heel yarn through the little "holes". 

These socks are teeny and tiny, and too cute!

This pattern is available on marilynnsgardenknitdesign.blogspot.com.

Copyright 2016, Marilynn Blacketer. All rights reserved. 8-19-16

For pattern support please contact: marilynnblacketer@gmail.com

SS Wave Hat

SS Wave Hat works well in wool, or a wool blend. The hat is worked as a modification of Slipped Stitches WAVES (400 knitting stitches, p166) giving the knitter something interesting to do, but keeping the texture simple enough for either gender. This may be considered an advanced beginner or intermediate pattern because you'll be working with two colors, just one per round, then slipping and twisting stitches. The pattern is offered with options for worsted, light worsted yarn, and in four sizes.  This hat takes just a few hours to knit, making the SS Wave Hat perfect for gifts or charity.

Finished sizes:

Adult: flat 16”, stretches to 22”circumference, height 9”

Child: flat 14”, stretches to 20”circumference, height 8”

Infant: flat 12”, stretches to 18”circumference, height 7”

Newborn: flat 10”, stretches to 16”circumference, height 6”

Gauge: 4.5 stitches = 1” Adjust needle size to match gauge.

Materials: Yarn: wool or wool blend in worsted or light worsted weight

Adult: 150 yards / 2.5 oz; Child: 125 yards /2 oz Infant/ Newborn: 90 yards / 1.5 oz

Photo: (child) SS Wave Hat is knit in Knit Picks, The Mighty Stitch, 20% superwash wool, 80% acrylic; Main color: Gulfstream, Contrasting color: Sky

Needles for hats: (Check the yarn label recommendations)

(Worsted) Size US #7, US #8, 16”, 12” circular needles, set size US#8, double pointed needles.

(Light/tight Worsted )Size US #6, US #7, 16”, 12” circular needles, set size US#7, double pointed needles.

Notions: Stitch markers, tapestry needle

Abbreviations: CO=cast on     K=knit k2tog=knit 2 stitches together    P=purl p2tog=purl 2 stitches together Rnd/s=round/s     sts=stitches     S=slip stitch purl-wise holding yarn to the back      M=main color    C=contrasting color    RC=right cross    LC=left cross

Special Stitches: (I prefer this RC, and LC)

RC = right cross = knit 2^nd stitch, leave on left needle, knit 1^st stitch, drop both stitches from left needle

LC= left cross= knit 2^nd stitch through the back loop, leave on left needle, knit 1^st stitch through the back loop, drop both stitches from left needle

SS Wave (these 10sts, and 14rnds make the SS Wave pattern) (Optional SS flat Wave)

C Rnd 1: K10

C Rnd 2: P4, k3, p3                                                                            (C Rnd 2: K10)

M Rnds 3, 4: K4, S3, k3

M Rnd 5: K3, RC, S1, LC, k2

M Rnds 6, 7: K10

C Rnd 8: K10

C Rnd 9: K2, p7, k1                                                                           (C Rnd 9: K10)

M Rnds 10, 11: S2, k7, S1

M Rnd 12: S1, LC, k5, RC

M Rnds 13, 14: K10

Directions: Directions are written for size adult [child, infant, newborn directions are in brackets]. (Notes are in Italic)

Use the long-tail cast-on method, with the smaller 16” [16”, 12”, 12”] circular needles,

and cast on the number of stitches for desired yarn, needles, and hat size.

SS Wave                                          Hat sizes:

Yarn weight:      Needle sizes:       Adult       Child       Infant        Newborn

Worsted                US #7, #8           CO 80      CO 70     CO 60       CO 50

Light Worsted       US #6, #7           CO 90      CO 80     CO 70       CO 60

Place marker & join together by knitting first stitch being careful not to twist.

Brim: Continue with smaller needles,

M Rnds 1-12 [10, 10, 8]: * Knit 1, purl 1; repeat from * to end

SS Wave Hat: With larger needles, (place maker after 10sts for repeats)      
                                                                                                         (Optional SS flat Wave)

C Rnd 1: Knit

C Rnd 2: * P4, k3, p3; repeat from * to end                                      (C Rnd 2: Knit)

M Rnds 3, 4: * K4, S3, k3; repeat from * to end

M Rnd 5: * K3, RC, S1, LC, k2; repeat from * to end

M Rnds 6, 7: Knit

C Rnd 8: Knit

C Rnd 9: * K2, p7, k1; repeat from * to end                                     (C Rnd 9: Knit)

M Rnds 10, 11: * S2, k7, S1; repeat from * to end

M Rnd 12: * S1, LC, k5, RC; repeat from * to end

M Rnds 13, 14: Knit

Work the hat in pattern for 8” [7”, 6”, 5”] from CO ending on rnd 6 or 13.

For a taller hat, work extra rounds of the pattern before starting the crown decreases.

SS Wave Crown:  Change to double pointed needles when needed.                                                                                      (Optional SS flat Wave Crown)

M Rnd 1: * K8, k2tog; repeat from * to end

C Rnd 2: Knit

C Rnd 3: * P1, k3, p3, p2tog; repeat from * to end       (C Rnd 3: * K7, k2tog; repeat to end)

M Rnd 4: *K1, S3, k2, k2tog; repeat from * to end

M Rnd 5: *K1, S3, k1, k2tog; repeat from * to end

M Rnd 6: * RC, S1, LC, k1; repeat from * to end

M Rnd 7: * K4, k2tog; repeat from * to end

M Rnd 8: * K3, k2tog; repeat from * to end

C Rnd 9: * K2, k2tog; repeat from * to end

C Rnd 10: * P1, p2tog; repeat from * to end                 (C Rnd 10: * K1, k2tog; repeat to end)

M Rnd 11: * K2tog; repeat from * to end.

Finishing: Cut 12” yarn and thread end through remaining stitches.

 Pull together, and tie off neatly.

(The slipped stitch to the right on the wave may not stand tall, gently elongate (tug) with the tip of a needle to even out the tension.)

Here are photos of the process:

I selected yarn and needles.  Worked the brim with size US#6, 12", and knitted onto US#7, 16"circular needles.

 

I worked the SSWave pattern twice, and measured the hat.  Not quite tall enough so I worked rounds 1-6 again.

 

I kept some the markers available as I decreased, and knitted onto the double pointed needles.

 

I worked the crown.  I am ready to cut the yarn, thread through, and tie off. 

Yes, I knitted two SS Wave hats. 

And we had fun at the beach.

This pattern is available on MarilynnsGardenKnitDesign.blogspot.com
Pattern pdf is available at Ravelry.com  (login needed)

Copyright 2016, Marilynn Blacketer. All rights reserved. 6-1-16

For pattern support please contact: marilynnblacketer@gmail.com

Sew What? Monster PJ Bottoms

Yes, this is my knitting blog, but sometimes fleece and sewing seem like a better choice!  I am knitting away on two other projects, but wanted get these Monster PJ Bottoms  in the mail!


Last weekend, my friend was excitedly telling me about some monster pants she knitted for her grand-daughter. There are some great patterns to knit or crochet, and her grand-daughter looks very cute!

But, I'd rather sew this project because this is the reply I received while asking my son for advice: "As his grandma, I think you can make him whatever silly stuff you want. Fleece sounds nice. Could you make him a top to go with it? He could wear them for PJs.  Love you."

Materials and supplies:
2 hours and basic sewing skills (one pair PJ bottoms)
1 yard fleece, and stash fleece for the monster's face (size 2)
pants pattern in the desired size
elastic for waist
thread (matching or contrasting)
scissors
pins
sewing machine
imagination
 
I checked the pattern drawer, fleece stash, coupons and sales, and headed up to JoAnns.

I  purchased 1 yard of two coordinating fleece fabrics, and gathered supplies.

My lucky day, the pattern fit on 1 yard.  I modified the pants, front,and bottom hems of the top.

I cut out the pieces.  There was enough fabric for two pair of PJs!

Getting started on one PJ bottom, I stitched the back seam.

With the back seam stitched, I folded the PJ bottoms at the sides to create a more realistic view.

I used a sliver of dry soap to trace around an 8.5"salad plate for the monster's head.

I traced around the 3" jar lid, and cut the eyes.

I cut pupils from the smaller dots of the coordinating fabric.  I also fashioned a mouth and teeth.  I pinned the details to the face, and carried just that to the sewing machine. I stitched, and trimmed the pieces into place.

I set the monster's face onto the back of the PJ bottoms, and saw that I needed to stitch the elastic casing at the waist.  Then I pinned the monster's face in place, and stitched it to the back of the PJ bottoms. 

Sorry, I didn't take photos of sewing the PJ bottoms.  I stitched the inside legs, then slid one leg inside the other to finish sewing the crotch. Next, I finished the elastic casing, and threaded though the elastic. Finally, I hemmed the legs.  

I made the second pair of Monster PJ bottoms.

The next morning, I made the tops.  Once I looked at them, the PJ's were really crazy, but then monsters have poor fashion sense.  I thought waffle knit tops would look much nicer.
 

A quick trip to the outlet mall Carter's made this fashion minded grandma happy, and the value of the package (JoAnn's fleece sale) more than the postage.  I put the 4 tops and both Monster PJ Bottoms in a medium flat rate box.

  The sun was shining, I walked the package to the post office.

Copyright 2016, Marilynn Blacketer. All rights reserved. 1/9/16

for pattern support please contact marilynnblacketer@gmail.com 

D'Stash Bag

2016 had arrived, and it was time to look at the yarn stash.  I looked, weighed, recorded, and joined Ravelry group Stash Control 2016.  Then I pulled some wool yarn out of the closet, and started my first de-stashing project of the new year.

D'Stash Bag

300 grams of worsted weight 100% wool suitable for felting.

 With US size 11, 24” needles, cast-on 120 stitches, place marker, join to work in the round.

Rnds 1-10: Knit

Rnd 11: Knit 20, bind-off 20, knit 40, bind-off 20, knit 20

Rnd 12: Knit 20, cast-on 20, knit 40, cast-on 20, knit 20 (creating handles)

Continue to knit, joining another strand of yarn as needed by holding new&old together for 4 stitches.

With 20grams of yarn remaining, start base decreases as follows:

Rnd 1: Knit 4, k2tog(knit two stitches together); repeat to end

Rnds 2- 6 even: Knit

Rnd 3: Knit 3, k2tog; repeat to end

Rnd 5: Knit 2, k2tog; repeat to end

Rnd 7: Knit 1, k2tog; repeat to end (40sts remain, 20stitches on 2 needles)

Three needle bind-off , or Kitchener Stitch.

Finishing: Weave in tails. Place in mesh bag, and felt for 30 minutes. Shape, trim tails, and let dry.

 
I added the flower from itty-bitty hats, by Susan B. Anderson, “felted flower child”, p89, and attached it with 3 orange french knots.

I'd like to share photos of the process: 

I selected wool, decided I'd start with magenta, and complete the project with reds and browns.

I placed most of the yarn in a narrow bag, and started.

I clipped green and orange markers to mark the beginning and end of the bind-offs creating handles .

The markers were also helpful to note the cast-on following the handle shaping.

I continued to knit until I had about 20grams of yarn remaining.

I worked decreases, and used a 3needle bind-off to close the bottom of the bag.

I took the time to weave in the tails. The bag measured: 19" wide, 21" height.  I placed the work in a mess bag, and into the top loading washer with hot water for 30 minutes. The darker yellow yarn was acrylic, oops!  I solved that problem by securing that work with brown wool whip stitches, (Yes, the blue was acrylic, too.  I worked red wool through those with a running stitch.) I put the bag  back in the washer for another 30 minutes.

finished size: flat & folded 9", open circumference 30", 11"height

 The next morning, I added the flower from itty-bitty hats, by Susan B. Anderson, “felted flower child”, p89, and attached it with 3 orange french knots.

This pattern is available on marilynnsgardenknitdesign.blogspot.com.

Copyright 2016, Marilynn Blacketer. All rights reserved. 1-9-16

For pattern support please contact: marilynnblacketer@gmail.com